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Aconcagua
FAQ
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Aconcagua
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| Q: | I would like info about climbing Aconcagua. I am a novice and my only previous experience with climbing is Kilimanjaro. Everything I have read suggests this is a much greater undertaking. I watched the video on climbing Aconcagua and it didnt look like a walk in the park. I am also concerned that I have no Ice axe/crampon experience. To make matters worse, I dont do well looking off steep drop offs. Crossing crevaces on ladders such as I saw on the Everest video is definitly out of the question!!!
I had no trouble with either fear of falling or altitude sickness while climbing Kilimanjaro. I am in reasonably goood shape for a climb. I also love 'adventures'.
Should I consider this climb? If so, when is the best month to climb. I would like to give myself the best chance at the summit. I can alter my schedule accordingly.
I would appreciate any info you could provide. | | A: | Thanks for your question. It is very good to consider this before you go to Aconcagua.
Climbing Aconcagua is a serious undertaking with great rewards. The mountain is not only the highest mountain of the South American continent and therefore one of the “7 summits”, it is the highest peak outside of Asia, being almost 7000m high (6962m).
But unlike other mountains this size Aconcagua can be climbed by people without technical climbing knowledge as the main routes are mostly snow and ice free. Even though the mountain offers classic extreme mountaineering routes on the 2700m high South Face as well, the normal routes can be climbed by most people with hiking and altitude experience. There are steep slopes you might pass, but no crevasses, no deep abysses and ladders. You do need a lot of new equipment for Aconcagua like warm boots, sleeping bag etc, so that can be a consideration as well.
For many people this means the ‘logical next step up’ from Kilimanjaro, but “The Stone Sentinel” -as the name is translated- should not be taken lightly. Just like on any other high mountain (including Kilimanjaro) altitude symptoms are unpredictable and dangers are plenty to be found. There is no guarantee for success even if it’s considered to be a ‘walk-up’ mountain.
Climbing Aconcagua is a serious undertaking, unlike Kilimanjaro, it’s an expedition that will take 2-3 weeks to accomplish. There is a reason that there are few glaciers on this high mountain: the winds and sun rays are so strong that most snow is either blown of the mountain or it melts away quickly.
For many people Aconcagua will be the first acquaintance with the South American mountain chain called the Andes, which is the spine of the continent. Aconcagua is different from high mountains in the Rockies or Alps; it is much drier and therefore there’s less vegetation. That’s why Aconcagua is sometimes referred to as a ‘big scree heap’, but if you look closer you will see a remarkable place on earth which is worth exploring, albeit with caution.
That said Aconcagua is much, much harder than Kilimanjaro. Period.
-> More people die on Aconcagua than on Denali, also relatively speaking and on all routes. <-
Kilimanjaro is beautiful but it is a fully serviced and portered hike in almost always good weather. Everything is done for you and you are only away from 'luxury' for a week max.
Aconcagua is an expedition, which means preparing your camps, melting snow for water, carrying your own luggage, doing every stretch twice to acclimatize.
If you are ready for Aconcagua can not be determined by success on Kilimanjaro alone. Kili will tell you if you can stand the altitude, but cannot prepare you for the mental strenght you need on Aconcagua. Summit success is far below Kili's rate because most people find it too tough, cold and hard work and simply want to go down and home.
So unless you are sure you can handle a 20 kilo backpack and have experience in altitude (Kili is a good place to test that!) and have lots of mental strenght to be able to stay put on a windy cold mountain for 2-3 weeks under primitive circumstances then Aconcagua might be the next step in the 7summits.
Just imagine summitday on Kilimanjaro and expect at least 3 of those days on Aconcagua with hard days in between. If that sound great, please sign up for one of our trips :-)
If not, practice on other hikes and climbs first. |
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