Chogolisa.net The South African/Dutch Chogolisa expedition 2004

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  • Introduction
  • Route
    • Approach to BC
    • BC to summit
  • Ascent History
  • References
The South African/Dutch Chogolisa expedition 2004

In July and August of this year a small Expedition comprising ten members of the Mountain Club of South Africa who have teamed up with two members of the NKBV, the Dutch National Mountaineering Federation, will attempt to climb Chogolisa, one of the major peaks in the Karakoram.
Chogolisa, the expedition's selected objective is a beautiful free standing 7 668 m high ice peak in the upper Baltoro region that has only been climbed eight times before. The last successful ascent was done in 1987. The approach to Chogolisa is via Concordia at the confluence of the Baltoro and Godwen Austin Glaciers surrounded by some of the highest peaks in the world - the Gasherbrum Peaks I to IV, are all just on 8 000 m high and K2, the second highest peak in the world.

The expedition will attempt either the mountain's Southwest Ridge or its North face, both accessed from a base camp on the Vigne glacier. Both of these routes have been climbed before, but neither of them often nor easily.

The team members are Ulrike Kiefer, Andre Schoon, Ian Bailey, Linda Daffue, Willem Daffue, Fran Hunziker, Cecilia Rademeyer, Anthony van Tonder and Robert Zipplies from South Africa plus Harry Kikstra and Marian Slot from the Nederlands.


Route:

The following is a rough outline of the program and the resulting altitudes aimed for. Note that we probably will create 2 separate teams so there will be more summit days/chances.

 

This is based on the following schedule:

Day   Date Action/place Time Alt   Day   Date Action/place Time Alt
1 Fri 2-Jul Fly off Johannesburg   0   26 Tues 27-Jul BC, rest   5000
2 Sat 3-Jul Transit in Dubai   0   27 Wed 28-Jul ABC, rest   5400
3 Sun 4-Jul Arrive in Islamabad 02h20   1500   28 Thur 29-Jul C1   6450
4 Mon 5-Jul last minute formalities   1500   29 Fri 30-Jul C2   7000
5 Tues 6-Jul Drive to Skardu, overnight in Chilas 10-12h 2000   30 Sat 31-Jul C2-summit-C1   7668
6 Wed 7-Jul Drive to Skardu 7-8h 2500   31 Sun 1-Aug ABC / BC   5400
7 Thur 8-Jul Rest and arrangements in Skardu   2500   32 Mon 2-Aug      
8 Fri 9-Jul Drive to Askole 7-8h 3368   33 Tues 3-Aug      
9 Sat 10-Jul Walk to +- Dumardo River 6h 3200   34 Wed 4-Aug      
10 Sun 11-Jul Walk to Paiju 6h 3600   35 Thur 5-Aug      
11 Mon 12-Jul Walk to Trango towers or rest   3600   36 Fri 6-Aug      
12 Tues 13-Jul Walk to Urdukas 7-8h 4200   37 Sat 7-Aug      
13 Wed 14-Jul Walk to Goro II 6-8h 4500   38 Sun 8-Aug      
14 Thur 15-Jul Walk to Vigne glacier 7-8h 4800   39 Mon 9-Aug Pack up   5000
15 Fri 16-Jul Establish base camp   5000   40 Tues 10-Aug Walk to Goro II   4500
16 Sat 17-Jul Rest, exploration   5000   41 Wed 11-Aug Walk to Urdukas   4200
17 Sun 18-Jul ABC   5400   42 Thur 12-Aug Walk to Trango Towers   3600
18 Mon 19-Jul Fix ropes, ABC   5400   43 Fri 13-Aug Walk to Paiju   3600
19 Tues 20-Jul Fix ropes, ABC   5800   44 Sat 14-Aug Walk to +- Dumardo   3200
20 Wed 21-Jul Fix ropes, ABC   6200   45 Sun 15-Aug Walk to Askole or Tongo   3368
21 Thur 22-Jul C1   6450   46 Mon 16-Aug Drive to Skardu   2500
22 Fri 23-Jul BC, rest   5000   47 Tues 17-Aug Drive back to Chilas   2000
23 Sat 24-Jul ABC, rest   5400   48 Wed 18-Aug Drive back to Islamabad   1500
24 Sun 25-Jul Carry to C1   6450   49 Thur 19-Aug Debriefing in Islamabad, shopping   1500
25 Mon 26-Jul C1   6450   50 Fri 20-Aug Depart from Islamabad 08h30   1500
              51 Sat 21-Aug Arrrive in Johannesburg 10h00   0

 




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