- Introduction
- Route
- Approach to BC
- BC to summit
- Ascent History
- References
|
The South African/Dutch Chogolisa expedition 2004
In July and August of this year a small Expedition
comprising ten members of the Mountain Club of South Africa who have
teamed up with two members of the NKBV, the Dutch National
Mountaineering Federation, will attempt to climb Chogolisa, one of
the major peaks in the Karakoram.
Chogolisa, the expedition's selected objective is a beautiful free
standing 7 668 m high ice peak in the upper Baltoro region that has
only been climbed eight times before. The last successful ascent was
done in 1987. The approach to Chogolisa is via Concordia at the
confluence of the Baltoro and Godwen Austin Glaciers surrounded by
some of the highest peaks in the world - the Gasherbrum Peaks I to
IV, are all just on 8 000 m high and K2, the second highest peak in
the world.
The expedition will attempt either the mountain's
Southwest Ridge or its North face, both accessed from a base camp on
the Vigne glacier. Both of these routes have been climbed before,
but neither of them often nor easily.
The team members are Ulrike Kiefer, Andre Schoon,
Ian Bailey, Linda Daffue, Willem Daffue, Fran Hunziker, Cecilia
Rademeyer, Anthony van Tonder and Robert Zipplies from South Africa
plus Harry Kikstra and Marian Slot from the Nederlands.
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This is based on the following schedule:
Day |
|
Date |
Action/place |
Time |
Alt |
|
Day |
|
Date |
Action/place |
Time |
Alt |
1 |
Fri |
2-Jul |
Fly off
Johannesburg |
|
0 |
|
26 |
Tues |
27-Jul |
BC, rest |
|
5000 |
2 |
Sat |
3-Jul |
Transit in
Dubai |
|
0 |
|
27 |
Wed |
28-Jul |
ABC, rest |
|
5400 |
3 |
Sun |
4-Jul |
Arrive in
Islamabad 02h20 |
|
1500 |
|
28 |
Thur |
29-Jul |
C1 |
|
6450 |
4 |
Mon |
5-Jul |
last
minute formalities |
|
1500 |
|
29 |
Fri |
30-Jul |
C2 |
|
7000 |
5 |
Tues |
6-Jul |
Drive to
Skardu, overnight in Chilas |
10-12h |
2000 |
|
30 |
Sat |
31-Jul |
C2-summit-C1 |
|
7668 |
6 |
Wed |
7-Jul |
Drive to
Skardu |
7-8h |
2500 |
|
31 |
Sun |
1-Aug |
ABC / BC |
|
5400 |
7 |
Thur |
8-Jul |
Rest and
arrangements in Skardu |
|
2500 |
|
32 |
Mon |
2-Aug |
|
|
|
8 |
Fri |
9-Jul |
Drive to
Askole |
7-8h |
3368 |
|
33 |
Tues |
3-Aug |
|
|
|
9 |
Sat |
10-Jul |
Walk to +-
Dumardo River |
6h |
3200 |
|
34 |
Wed |
4-Aug |
|
|
|
10 |
Sun |
11-Jul |
Walk to
Paiju |
6h |
3600 |
|
35 |
Thur |
5-Aug |
|
|
|
11 |
Mon |
12-Jul |
Walk to
Trango towers or rest |
|
3600 |
|
36 |
Fri |
6-Aug |
|
|
|
12 |
Tues |
13-Jul |
Walk to
Urdukas |
7-8h |
4200 |
|
37 |
Sat |
7-Aug |
|
|
|
13 |
Wed |
14-Jul |
Walk to
Goro II |
6-8h |
4500 |
|
38 |
Sun |
8-Aug |
|
|
|
14 |
Thur |
15-Jul |
Walk to
Vigne glacier |
7-8h |
4800 |
|
39 |
Mon |
9-Aug |
Pack up |
|
5000 |
15 |
Fri |
16-Jul |
Establish
base camp |
|
5000 |
|
40 |
Tues |
10-Aug |
Walk to
Goro II |
|
4500 |
16 |
Sat |
17-Jul |
Rest,
exploration |
|
5000 |
|
41 |
Wed |
11-Aug |
Walk to
Urdukas |
|
4200 |
17 |
Sun |
18-Jul |
ABC |
|
5400 |
|
42 |
Thur |
12-Aug |
Walk to
Trango Towers |
|
3600 |
18 |
Mon |
19-Jul |
Fix ropes,
ABC |
|
5400 |
|
43 |
Fri |
13-Aug |
Walk to
Paiju |
|
3600 |
19 |
Tues |
20-Jul |
Fix ropes,
ABC |
|
5800 |
|
44 |
Sat |
14-Aug |
Walk to +-
Dumardo |
|
3200 |
20 |
Wed |
21-Jul |
Fix ropes,
ABC |
|
6200 |
|
45 |
Sun |
15-Aug |
Walk to
Askole or Tongo |
|
3368 |
21 |
Thur |
22-Jul |
C1 |
|
6450 |
|
46 |
Mon |
16-Aug |
Drive to
Skardu |
|
2500 |
22 |
Fri |
23-Jul |
BC, rest |
|
5000 |
|
47 |
Tues |
17-Aug |
Drive back
to Chilas |
|
2000 |
23 |
Sat |
24-Jul |
ABC, rest |
|
5400 |
|
48 |
Wed |
18-Aug |
Drive back
to Islamabad |
|
1500 |
24 |
Sun |
25-Jul |
Carry to
C1 |
|
6450 |
|
49 |
Thur |
19-Aug |
Debriefing
in Islamabad, shopping |
|
1500 |
25 |
Mon |
26-Jul |
C1 |
|
6450 |
|
50 |
Fri |
20-Aug |
Depart
from Islamabad 08h30 |
|
1500 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
51 |
Sat |
21-Aug |
Arrrive in
Johannesburg 10h00 |
|
0 |
|