7summits forum!

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Diamox--Is using it "cheating"?  (Read 7536 times)

jrehman

  • Armchair...
  • *
  • Altitude: 0
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2
  • I am too lazy too change this text!
Diamox--Is using it "cheating"?
« on: Jun 13 2005, 23:20 »

Hi,

We have all heard the discussion of "oxygen" being used on everest, etc, and some feel that it constitutes "cheating" if used above the death zone as a supplement and a precaution, rather than as a necessary means to aide in curing HAPE/HACE, etc.

However, what do you all feel about Diamox? Do you feel that it should be in the same category as oxygen--that is, does it constitute "cheating"?

Thanks.
Logged

Neil

  • Armchair...
  • *
  • Altitude: -8
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9
  • Jump through the Hoops
    • BigLines
Re: Diamox--Is using it "cheating"?
« Reply #1 on: Jun 14 2005, 06:36 »

You know what, mountaineering is not the Olympics, there are no drugs tests after you leave the mountain. So it is up to the individual to figure out what they believe there ethics are when it comes to reaches the top. Diamox is a drug to treat AS by increasing your breathing rate and many other things. Adapting to altitude is not based on how many drugs you take, it's based on your genetics. So maybe you should be talking about powererful steriods like dex that will increase you chances of survival at high altitudes.
Logged
Nothing come from nothing come on, Royal Oil.

Daisy

  • Scrambler
  • ***
  • Altitude: -23
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 96
Re: Diamox--Is using it "cheating"?
« Reply #2 on: Jun 14 2005, 15:34 »

Hi,

We have all heard the discussion of "oxygen" being used on everest, etc, and some feel that it constitutes "cheating" if used above the death zone as a supplement and a precaution, rather than as a necessary means to aide in curing HAPE/HACE, etc.

However, what do you all feel about Diamox? Do you feel that it should be in the same category as oxygen--that is, does it constitute "cheating"?

Thanks.

Now we're really nitpicking!! No, taking Diamox is not cheating. Is taking aspirin cheating now too? Diamox only helps alleviate some the symptoms of AS in some cases but it's not a wonder drug that enables you to fly to the summit!
Logged
“Today, it is still not hard to find a man who will adventure for the sake of a dream or one who will search, for the pleasure of searching, and not for what he may find.”
                        Sir Edmund Hillary

MoT

  • Climber
  • ****
  • Altitude: 8
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 247
    • TightropeNET
Re: Diamox--Is using it "cheating"?
« Reply #3 on: Jun 14 2005, 19:24 »

Cheating? Hmmmm... Tough one really. This debate is one that will never really get solved. Personally I don't use it - I usually bring a supply of it in the event of developing symptoms of AMS. By the way, it's not used as first line treatment of HAPE/HACE - those are initially treated with descent+nifedipine or descent+dexamethasone respectively...

I guess everybody makes their own rules in this game. The reason I don't use it to help acclimatize is because if your body is having difficulty adjusting to a given height, there's probably a very good reason for that and if you mask that difficult transition you can potentially get into difficulty much higher up than without diamox. One of our team on Aconcagua was put on Diamox for AMS at Plaza Argentina by the base camp doctor. He was subsequently taken off it later as he wasn't improving much and I guess the Doc didn't want him going too high and developing further altitude related complications

Just my 2 cent
« Last Edit: Jun 15 2005, 18:54 by MoT »
Logged

MikeW

  • Climber
  • ****
  • Altitude: 13
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 167
  • To be is to climb!
Re: Diamox--Is using it "cheating"?
« Reply #4 on: Jun 14 2005, 20:13 »

Hey Guys!

I agree with MoT. You should let your body adjust naturally to high altitude. It could be dangerous with any kind of drugs to mask the effect of altitude. My good friend took diamox as a preventive measure on Aconcagua, he started getting symptoms of cerebral oedema in the Canaleta at 6500m, not a good place to stumble let me tell you! Without the diamox, he probably would have gotten the same symptoms at a lower altitude, thus a lot less dangerous for himself (he got the same symptoms on Kilimanjaro at 4000m but less acute than on Aconcagua).

I have just read to many climbers are using dexamethasone as a preventive measure just like diamox for Himalayan climbs, I think that's even worse than taking diamox. The withdrawal effect is a lot worse for dex than diamox and at 8000m it is suicidal to risk it in my humble opinion.

By the way, here is a picture of MoT in Plaza Argentina base camp on Aconcagua playing the guitar and singing. We had our own private concert, quite spectacular! ;D

MikeW

Logged

MoT

  • Climber
  • ****
  • Altitude: 8
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 247
    • TightropeNET
Re: Diamox--Is using it "cheating"?
« Reply #5 on: Jun 15 2005, 18:55 »

 ;D

I tell ya that guitar was worth it! Only half a kilo too!
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.086 seconds with 23 queries.