7 Zummits Speed Ascent

[sgudmann]

Danish Everest summiteer Søren Gudmann (43) is going for the 7+1 Zummits in record time, namely less than 7 months. If things turn out according to plans, he will:
 
·   be the first Dane to finalize the seven
·   beat the existing record of 7 months, incl. Kosciusko
·   beat the existing record of 10 months, incl. Carstenz Pyramid
·   be the first Nordic person to do all 8

Status
The project has been going well and per 15. September these are done:
Everest 4th June
Denali 2nd July
Elbrus 24th July
Kosciusko 5th September

The end of the year will be hectic. This is the program: Kilimanjaro 23.09 – 06.10, Carstenz Pyramid 13.11 – 29.11, Mt. Vinson 02.12 – 19.12 and Aconcagua 20.12 –    

General information
Danish citizen, living in Norway. Born in 1961. Graduated Engineer, works in offshore oil business – when not having a leave for the 7 Z project !

For further info please see www.sggo4everest.com, however the website is not yet updated with the 7Z stuff, but will be soon.

 

[henrik olsen]

Hi there
Well there seems to be a battel for the 7summits and to be the first Dane to do the 7summits.
I happen to be really close as well, and only need to summit Mt. Everest to do my 7 summits. See www.7summits.dk  Sadly i was very close to be on the summis of Carstensz in dec 03 but a lot of s... happend and we were forced to turn around and did not summit. (i`il be back) So for you Søren, things still have to work out nicely for you, and as of now, iam 2 ahead of you.
We will have to see witch one of us takes the glory first.
Iíl be on my way to Everest in Marts 06   

I will not make it in 7 months but will do it in 6 years if i make it to the summit of Everest 06.

[Søren Gudmann]

Update on the Danish 7 Zummit Speed Ascent:

Status
The project is still going well and these are done:
Everest 4th June
Denali 2nd July
Elbrus 24th July
Kosciusko 5th September
Kilimanjaro 30th September 2005

That means only Vinson go to finalize the 7 Zummits, and Aconcagua also to be the fastest.

But Mr. Olsens comments are quite true: nothing is over before it is over 

[Soren Gudmann]

Update per 30.Nov

Summited on Aconcagua (for the 2nd time in my "career") on 26th Nov ( my birthday !)
as approx. the 4th of this season.

Bound for Pt. Arenas on the 2nd, and ETA Patriot Hills is 5th Dec

Will meet my russian teammates in Pt. Arenas on the 3rd Dec

Rgds
Soren

[Roger]

How was Aconcagua
I believe the route is only just being opened up now as there have been heavy snows.
This report from Rudy Parra
The news are not good. It is not possible to arrive with mules to Plaza Argentina.
Many mules tried to arrive but it was impossible. The first ones mules and muleteers only arrived until Casa de Piedra. This happened on Saturday 26th Nov.
There are big remains of avalanches in the ascent from the Valle de las Vacas of toward the Valley de los Relinchos.
If the mules don't arrive to Plaza Argentina, it is not possible to install the camps.
I cannot assure when it can change this situation.
I don't believe that it is in the next ones 10 or next 15 days.
We will send but people with picks and shovels to try to open a path, but we are not sure of being able to make it.
It has begun very complicated this season. It has been one winter with much, but a lot of snow, maybe the most important in the last 10 years.
With many problems we have arrived to Plaza de Mulas, but there we have arrived and we are installing our camps.
The ascent for the Valle de los Relinchos is very sheer and he gets complicated everything.
We have many problems, since great part of the camps is in the deposits of Plaza Argentina from the end of the last season.
The first expeditions of the season that arrived this week have returned to ascend for the normal route and from there to make the voyage until the Glaciar de los Polacos or Falso Polacos.
Only a group of three people, they took as camp it bases Casa de Piedra and of there they will try to arrive, without service some to Plaza Argentina.

Cant wait to see your photos, must be some amazing shots with all that snow.
Must have been a really hard journey to get in there with mules out of action.
Will there be a trip report also?
Wish your site was also in English

Cheers
Roger

[jedi-knight]

hey roger,

here's the english version of his website:
http://www.7summits.dk/index1.php?sprog=english

 

[7summits]

hey roger,

here's the english version of his website:
http://www.7summits.dk/index1.php?sprog=english

 

Hey JK,

that is not Soren's website it is the site of Danish climber Henrik Olsen, another cool guy, who will be with us on Everest next year.

Cheers,
Harry

[Soren Gudmann]

I used the normal route, to Plaza das Mulas
I was delayed some days, because the mules could not pass the snow/penitentes. But as soon as you are in Plaza das mulas it is no problem. Some snow on lower Nido, but not much higher up. Actually very little snow in Canaleta, and therefore bloddy loose rocks !!

So it is just to go for it !

Apologize for not updating the english part of my site as often as the danish.

Or to comment a bit more in general on websites: many people have fancy websites and update them often. I try to let my performance in the mountain be more important than the website, even though I would have liked to have fancy/frequently updated site.

Rgds

[jedi-knight]

Hey JK,

that is not Soren's website it is the site of Danish climber Henrik Olsen, another cool guy, who will be with us on Everest next year.

Cheers,
Harry

hey harry,

hahahahaha !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

didnt realise it. i went to www.7summits.dk and figured out that its not in english...then i went to do a mouseover the different menus and got to the english version....

lol  !

 

[Henrik Olsen]

Hi JK and Harry
Thanks for your kind word about me Harry 
And to you JK, "lol" just keep looking on my website. That´s cool 
The above replys is kind of funny.
I will try to update it, even more in English.

Cheers
Henrik Olsen

[SØREN GUDMANN]

 

Finalized my speed ascent on 14th December on the summit of Vinson.
Made the Seven in 193 days ! and became the first Danish person to climb them.

My website  is www.7zummits.dk (english section not yet updated)

 

[Milan]

Hi Soren,

Congrats, and what a time to do that in. What's next? the 14 in 14 month would be cool 

[Mary Clare]

Danish Everest summiteer Søren Gudmann (43) is going for the 7+1 Zummits in record time, namely less than 7 months. If things turn out according to plans, he will:
 
·   be the first Dane to finalize the seven
·   beat the existing record of 7 months, incl. Kosciusko
·   beat the existing record of 10 months, incl. Carstenz Pyramid
·   be the first Nordic person to do all 8

Congratulation to you Søren, on your speed ascent of the "7" in 193 days...amazing accomplishment!!!  How many days (not months) was the previous record for the "7" incl. Kosciusko?  And when is the scheduled date to climb Carstenz Pyramid?  It looks like you are right on track to complete all of the above records.
Again...congrats big time.  You are one of my new "heros"!
Wishing you all the best on your climb of C.P.
MC     

[m.c. reinhardt]

Søren

I think I answered my own questions by going to your web-site.  I too, wish you had an English version.  It is 214 dage med Kosciusko, lavet af Gary Ball og Rob Hall.  So, 214 days.  Are you still planning to climb Carstenz Pyramid this month?

MC

[søren Gudmann]

Hi

 

My Carstenz Pyramid plans are not progressing well at all.
I should have been on a trip that was scheduled to 4-15. February, i.e. right now.
But I received information that the latest trip run by same organiser had been stuck on PNG without getting in to the mountain. I therefore decided to wait and see if they were successful with the permits this time.
It seemed they were and the group took off, and I was damning myself that I did not go for it. Then came the Muhamed drawings riots, and I was suddenly happy not to be in Indonesia with a Danish passport. And a few days later, ie. last week I heard the group had turned around after threats from the local guerilla, WPM, West Papua Movement  :?). So after all I am happy not to be there right now, but off course sad that I did not manage to get there last year, where a couple of groups managed to get all the way in (and safe out).

So I guess my chance of beating the record on the 7 with Cartsenz is dwindling.

I will have to settle my mind on the writing of a book about my 7 Zummit Speed Ascent , and more day to day task, such as going to work everyday !

Ideas for new trips are already in my head !!

Regs
Søren

 

[m.c. reinhardt]

Søren

It must be disappointing in that you may not make Carstenz Pyramid for the speed record.  But in the big scheme of things, what you have accomplished is absolutely amazing!!!  (And there is still a chance.)
You write the book on your 7 Zummit Speed Ascent...I will definitely buy a copy.
I certainly hope that the local guerilla, West Papua Movement situation will somehow resolve itself in the near future.  It is so challenging for anyone to get to this mountain.  Good luck in your next adventure, whatever it may be.

MC       

[MikeW]

I'm sorry to say to Soren that I think he got beat for the fastest 7 summits with Kozzie. The guide that I had on Vinson, Vern Tejas (number 13 on the Kozzie list) just finished it starting with Everest on May 30, 2005 and finishing in November on Vinson.

He's actually trying to do the 7 summits 2 times in 365 days (a year!!!), which he will accomplish by summiting Everest before May 30 of this year (he's got 5 Everest summits, so 5 times 7 summits because he's summited the other mountains a lot more time than 5).

Quite a mountaineer and a great guide and person with that.

MikeW

[Mountain John]

Thanks MikeW for that.  Hey, if I am ever in Montreal, I'll have to stop by and see you!  I'm glad at least that our countries are friends!  JC

[Mountain John]

By the way. Soren, I am glad you made the decision you did.  We can always second guess, because we always do not know the future.  You made the best decision at that time, for yourself.  You will have another chance.  Things will get better there.  For any future records, maybe do that one first, since there are factors out of our control.

cheers, JC

[7summits]

I'm sorry to say to Soren that I think he got beat for the fastest 7 summits with Kozzie. The guide that I had on Vinson, Vern Tejas (number 13 on the Kozzie list) just finished it starting with Everest on May 30, 2005 and finishing in November on Vinson.

He's actually trying to do the 7 summits 2 times in 365 days (a year!!!), which he will accomplish by summiting Everest before May 30 of this year (he's got 5 Everest summits, so 5 times 7 summits because he's summited the other mountains a lot more time than 5).

Quite a mountaineer and a great guide and person with that.

MikeW

Yep, that is correct, Vern is the fastest until now (I know I need to update the stats... am preparing a presentation first)
Vern is a great guy and he loves to cook just like me 
See the attached picture of us at Vinson BC.

I tried (an am still trying) to set up a trip for Soeren. I did not want to put him on the current trip as I was not suure it would work out; and it apppears I was right in that decision. If more people will be coming for the March 06 trip, then it might still be possible for Soren, but we need 5 people (or a lot of money) to run that trip...

Cheers,
Harry

[MikeW]

Yes JC our countries are really friendly now with the election of our new prime minister Harper who is almost as conservative as Mighty George. And if you do come to our beautiful but frigid city of Montreal, we will go and grab a beer together and that goes to anybody who comes to Montreal, I'm not picky.

And yes Harry, Vern is a great cook, lots of pancakes and bacon in the morning, pork chops, steaks, fish for dinners. We even got pizza in Patriot Hills. I almost didn't lose any weight on Vinson (it didn't help that we got stuck for 8 days doing nothing except eating and resting).

MikeW

[Søren Gudmann]

Carstensz Pyramid trip

Well it seems that I am going to get a shot on Carstensz, a couple of months too late for record, but I want to finish the work anyway.

I am going 8th May with Manado Safaris and Franky.

Anybody who has some recent news from the mountain ?, I would appreciate that.

Thanks & regards
Søren

[m.c. reinhardt]

Søren

I do not have any news on the current situation of Carstensz but I wish you the best of luck on this climb. It is wonderful that you are getting a chance to finish your quest!
Go for it!!!

MC   

[Roger]

Hi Soren
There is a comprehensive travel warning for the West Papua region, so I presume if you get into trouble your insurance will be voided.
Given that you are only flying in right to and out of the Zebra Wall it is unlikely that you will encouter issues.
Is it enjoyable just to whip in and bag the peak?
Wouldnt it be nice to trek into the region and actually spend time with the locals and also to give something back to the West Papuan people?
Must be very expensive flying in by helicopter from Indonesia. Are you going with a group of other similiar wealthy clients?
I will be trekking into the region in the future and look forward to spending time with the local people and learning of their culture and struggle for independance.
Kind Regards
Roger

[MikeW]

Hi!

I've learned that 4 Japanese climbers haves summited Carstensz in March 2006, so it is open for climbers. 2 friends are going on May 8 with Mountain Trip (organized by Franky), so you might see them over there.

As for myself, I'm planning that trip in August 2006. Good luck and post your experience of the climb when you get back.

MikeW

[Søren Gudmann]

To Roger about flying in to Carstenz:

While I do have sympathy with the Papua people and their wish to be independent, it must remind you that they have chosen an attitude that is equally agressive to tourists/climbers as it is to Indonesia. In february climbers on the jungle trek where threatened, and told there were equally unwelcome as Indonesians. They do apparently not want people from around the world to know their story and help them tell it.

And I do not have any bad feelings about being able to pay for my own sport.

To Mike W thanks

Best regards
Søren

[Roger]

Der Soren

I wish you well with your expedition. Please do not feel threatened by my questioning the great expense to fly in and out. I just find it sad that none of the large amounts of money given to the Indonesian expedition people finds its way to the Papuan people but then I guess that is just part of their issue with Indonesians and American companies who are raping and absolutely ruining the very mountain and region you are travelling into.

It will be good to hear of your trip report. When do you expect to be in the region? Will you be with a large group?

All the best

Roger

[Eduard]

Dear Soren,
I just want to let you know, recently Carstensz Area are being Very Wet. Much of rain after 2p.m. Year 2004 and 2005 weathers in May should be dry. The latest trip to Carstensz area (East Peak) is last week by 8 members of Mining Employee interest group.

I wish you All the BEST !
Thanks and Regards,
Eduard - Timika.

Carstensz Pyramid trip

Well it seems that I am going to get a shot on Carstensz, a couple of months too late for record, but I want to finish the work anyway.

I am going 8th May with Manado Safaris and Franky.

Anybody who has some recent news from the mountain ?, I would appreciate that.

Thanks & regards
Søren

[sören gudmann]

Thanks guys

I will arrive in Manado tomorrow, so summit day is approx. 1,5 week down the road.
Would have loved to experience more of Papua, but this trip is mainly to do the climb.

Regards
Sören

[Soren Gudmann]

Hi all

Then I finally managed to get to Carstensz. I summited 14th May , about 0900. We had a an absolutely beautiful day without a drop of rain or snow, and it is a nice climb.
I did not make a record, but become one of two persons who have made the Seven including Carstensz within 1 year, as far as I know for the time being.

Best regards
Soren Gudmann

[Mountain John]

Hi Soren,

Congrats on your determination and accomplishment!!

John

[m.c. reinhardt]

Echoing Mountain John's words...CONGRATS!

Good for you, Soren, doing the Carstensz and the Kosciusko version.  Though either version of the "7" is an amazing accomplishment.  And to do it within one year...well done!

Keep climbing
MC