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[Cy Kaicener]

On January 12 th a Spanish climber had a heart attack 10 meters from the summit of
Aconcagua  http://www.cho-oyu.net/

[m.c. reinhardt]

Very sad news regarding this climber.

The following is not pertaining to the topic.  I am posting regarding info on the above link.

MoT - Check out the link that Cy posted above http://www.cho-oyu.net/ - go to the 3rd heading: Aconcagua Update 2006-01-04.  The "water" might explain the problem you had on your attempt of Aconcagua that you mentioned in the quote below from Jan. 21, 2005.  Were you on the normal route on that climb?

The following night was REAL cold. Barry and I went for it but an unfortunate need to defecate (!) made problems for me at 5am! (We left at 4:30am). I ate a nasty spicy breakfast, which I promptly had to vomit up - not altitude related thank God! The body just needed the blood in the rest of my body, not in the stomach digesting stuff! (Mental note - light breakfast or energy drink for summit day in future!). Other problem is - full stomach equals active colon/lower bowels! There was no stopping the urge to poo! I HAD to stop and go there and then and unfortunately got extremely cold, so cold that my hands went numb and my feet froze. Abandon ship! In fact the reason I went down was that I had stopped feeling the pain of the cold in my right foot - it was damp and my foot was actually starting to freeze! 

MC

[Cy Kaicener]

Two Spanish climbers died within a couple of days of each other. Here is a report from a guide who was at the scene  http://www.mt-whitney.info/viewtopic.php?p=4585#4585

[MoT]

Check out the link that Cy posted above http://www.cho-oyu.net/ - go to the 3rd heading: Aconcagua Update 2006-01-04.  The "water" might explain the problem you had on your attempt of Aconcagua that you mentioned in the above quote from Jan. 21, 2005.  Were you on the normal route on that climb?

MC

That's a little bit off topic but no, it was definitely not the water - it was a one off. We were on the Polish side but there were no problems for people in general when we were there. (Except for Barry having haematuria from a kidney stone! Too many minerals in the w water!)

But let's not take from the topic in this post about fatalities on the mountain from other causes!

[Mary Clare]

That's a little bit off topic but no, it was definitely not the water - it was a one off. We were on the Polish side but there were no problems for people in general when we were there. (Except for Barry having haematuria from a kidney stone! Too many minerals in the w water!)

But let's not take from the topic in this post about fatalities on the mountain from other causes!

[Mary Clare]

MoT

The above post did not take correctly as I had a comment under the quote.  I completely agree with your statement.  I realized my post was inappropriate after I had posted.  I was just trying to help you with the reason you had to turn around on Aconcagua.
The death of two climbers on Aconcagua is a terrible tradgedy. I was very sad to read about two deaths on the mountain just days from each other.  As thrilling and challenging as climbing can be, it certainly has its risks.  It is always sad when someone dies.  Again, my appologies.
MC

[MoT]

That's ok - I wasn't giving out or anything! No, the ultimate reason for turnaround was poor care of my footwear, allowing one boot to get damp - got frostnip on my 3rd and final summit bid. The first failed due to weather, the second due to poo and the third due to a wet/frozen foot that I had to get shelter to thaw out so no damage.  :_[

[Mary Clare]

MoT

I was wondering, are you going for the big "7"?  I am just barely contemplating the thought.  So much to consider.  I have mountaineering experience from the Sierra's in California, some rock climbing experience...5.7 was my most difficult climb.  And my highest altitude was Mt. Whitney...14,502 ft.  So I have a long way to go.  Aside from the expense, the serious commitment and physical stamina that is needed to climb all "7", I have some concerns of safety.  It seems that many things can go wrong at the high altitudes of these mountains.  I guess this is the risk that all climbers are willing to take to attain their goals and fulfill their dreams.

MC     

[MoT]

Heh heh - I'm pursuing my own version called The Relatively Inexpensive 5 Summits 

[jedi-knight]

Heh heh - I'm pursuing my own version called The Relatively Inexpensive 5 Summits 

hey MoT,

why dont you sell pixels like a UK student? he sells 1 millions pixels on his website; $1 per pixel. he raised $1 million in 5 months to help finance his education. you could do something similar to finance your climbs.....

i thought his idea was cool.....

jk 

[Nudge]

I summited Aconcagua by the Polish Trverse on Thursday the 12th @ 3.30pm. I  heard quite a bit about this poor guy including the alleged way his remains were removed down the Cannelto.

I also was told that he had attempted to summit the previous day but had to turn back or had been turned back.

I have a very interesting story to tell with regard to the emergency services on the mountain, insurances and the deliberate policy by some to "burn" clients out to suit their own means.

I only got back late yesterday from Argentina so when I get my thoughts together I'll share them.