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Author Topic: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization  (Read 12948 times)

Andreas

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A norwegian, Tormod Granheim, and a swede  Tomas Olsson, is planning to ski down the north side of Everest this seson.
They are planning to aclimatize by climbing 7000 meters peaks around Base Camp and  sleep in Base Camp, instedad of going to Advanced Base Camp. On the summit atempt they are planning to use only 48 ours above ABC, and go directly from ABC to Camp 2 and then to the summit before skiing down.
Has this way of aclimatizing been done succsecfully before? Is it "normal"?

They have skiied down Cho Oyu before,  so they are quit experienced. http://www.tormodgranheim.com/sider/engelsk/about.html

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #1 on: Mar 5 2006, 19:23 »

No this is not normal. It is possible to summit by only sleeping at 7000m, but not by just climbing to it or you must climb a lot of 7000m peaks.
But the biggest problem is that there is hardly any snow in Spring. If there is, it will be fresh and it wil create avalanches.

So in total it is suicidal.

Skiing from Cho Oyu does not make you experienced enough to ski down vertical rock on Everest. Marco Siffredi died on Everest (with a snowboard) and he had done it once before, but in fall, when there was much stable snow.

Fortunately this acclimatisation schedule will prevent these guys from actually getting to the summit, so that might save their lives...
« Last Edit: Mar 6 2006, 22:15 by 7summits »
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Andreas

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #2 on: Mar 6 2006, 22:04 »

I guess the webpage I was reading about them the first time (http://pub.tv2.no/nettavisen/friluftsliv/article572847.ece) got things a little bit wrong. In another webpage (only in norwegian I`m afraid) they say that they are going to try to get above 8000 meter before the final summit atempt.
(http://pub.tv2.no/nettavisen/friluftsliv/article574525.ece#qlist)

I`m not sure, but the way I understand it,  the idea is too sleep in Base Camp and climb 7000 meters peaks, instead of walking between BC and ABC and therfore have too sleep in ABC. (they probarbly have to anyway if they want to go above 8000..) He claims that it is better to sleep on low altitude. But on the summit atempt they don`t want to spend too much time on hight altitude, therefore they want to go from Base Campt to the summit in only 48 hours.
Maybe this makes it a little bit less suicidal  ???

I did also find an interwiev with them in english, though here they dosent say anything at all about the aclimatizing idea there:
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1627

All in all I probarbly know too little about the exact plans, so maybe my first post shouldn`t have been posted.
« Last Edit: Mar 6 2006, 22:22 by Andreas »
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m.c. reinhardt

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #3 on: May 13 2006, 04:35 »

May 9, 2006 update

“We finally got some decent skiing on the north face of Everest.”

Tomas Olsson and Tormod Granheim have just skied down the world’s highest mountain from about 7500m twice now.  This is in preparation to ski from the summit of Everest down the north face.  They are currently below BC resting before heading back up the mountain for the attempt.  Tomas has a sore left foot and Tormod has diarrhea.  The photographer, Fredrik has injured his knee.  “It’s a bit like M*A*S*H in our base camp” says Tomas.

http://www.everestnews.com/everest2006/toeverest01112005.htm
http://everytrail.net/blog/tomas/

MC

« Last Edit: May 13 2006, 13:42 by mc »
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m.c. reinhardt

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #4 on: May 14 2006, 03:52 »

May 13, 2006 update

Tomas and Tormod are heading towards the summit in the next few days.

Their tentative schedule is:
May 14: North Col
May 15: Camp at 7900
May 16: Summit attempt

Wishing them success and a safe adventure!!!

MC
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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #5 on: May 15 2006, 22:52 »

May 15, 2006 update

Tomas just called from his camp at 7900m. He will attempt to reach the summit tonight and ski down the Norton Couloir on the North Face of Everest. Tormod has been delayed due to stomach problems but he is on his way up. The photographer is on his way up to the North Col for the filming of the descent.

Listen to Tomas’ blog for details.

http://everytrail.net/blog/tomas/

MC
« Last Edit: May 15 2006, 23:07 by mc »
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Andreas

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #6 on: May 16 2006, 12:54 »

They summited for about three hours ago.   ;D

http://www.gp.se/content/1/c6/26/72/54/tomas2.mp3
http://www.gp.se/gp/jsp/Crosslink.jsp?d=113&a=267254

They are not sure that they will be able to ski down because of bad weather
« Last Edit: May 16 2006, 12:58 by Andreas »
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Andreas

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m.c. reinhardt

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #8 on: May 17 2006, 11:54 »

May 16, 2006 update

Tomas called home from the summit of Everest about to put on his skis and attempt a ski descent down the Norton Couloir along with Tormod. The two reported an incredibly tough, 14 hour climbing night in a raging snowstorm.

http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=2000

Tomas Olsson and Tormod Granheim are not the only Swede/Norwegian team to attempt to ski the north side of Mt. Everest this year. Olof Sundström and Martin Letzter (two Swedes) are out on the same quest as part of an ongoing project to ski the Seven summits. According to Swedish Aftonbladet, the two summited Everest on Tuesday, May 16th and skied down the North side. No details yet if the ski was a complete ride. See above link.

MC
« Last Edit: Jun 3 2006, 03:17 by mc »
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Andreas

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #9 on: May 17 2006, 23:41 »

The latest news in scandinavian media is that Ollson is missing after a rapell at 8500 meters  :(

Granheim is at a camp on 6400 meters

Here is the press relase on swedish form Ollsons hompage: http://tomasolsson.test.interlan.se/nyheter/default.asp?ss=3
« Last Edit: May 17 2006, 23:44 by Andreas »
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m.c. reinhardt

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #10 on: May 18 2006, 02:38 »

Tomas Olsson is missing on the North Face of Everest. He fell at approximately 8500 meters when an anchor broke during a rappel down a 50 ft. rock section. Tormod Granheim immediately climbed down after Tomas but found only his ice axe. Tormod and Fredrik Schenholm are now heading towards the foot of the North Face to look for Tomas.

Tormod and Fredrik are setting up a rescue operation. If anyone knows how to get in touch with the British Army Base Camp right now, it would be very helpful. Joost (who is helping with the set up of the rescue party) has one sat phone number but that one seems to be switched off right now. If you can help, contact joost at joost@schreve.com

http://everytrail.net/blog/tomas/2006/05/tomas_missing_after_fall.php

http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=2029

MC
« Last Edit: May 26 2006, 00:19 by mc »
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m.c. reinhardt

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #11 on: May 19 2006, 22:07 »

Interview with Tormod Granheim on the Everest skiing accident.

http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=2057

MC
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m.c. reinhardt

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Re: Skiing down Everest with limited aclimatization
« Reply #12 on: May 21 2006, 03:03 »

Tomas' body was found.

http://everytrail.net/blog/tomas/
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=2072

My condolences to his family and friends. He truly lived his life to the fullest.

MC
« Last Edit: May 21 2006, 10:52 by mc »
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