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Author Topic: 7 summits by no normals routes  (Read 9886 times)

Marine

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7 summits by no normals routes
« on: Mar 12 2006, 04:03 »

Dear friends and climbers partners,
first and foremost excuse me my english.  :_[
I´m spanish mountainer and I´m climbing this project, but climbing "no normals" routes. I was climb four mountains, Denali´03 (west rib), Aconcagua´04(variant alto-aragonesa, direct Polacos glacier), Elbrus´04(north face) and Kilimanjaro´04(umbwe-western breach)
I´ll climb the Everest this spring. My first idea is climb the Norton Couloir, but... my question is the next. If I can´t climb this route if bad conditions, I´ll climb north east bridge alone and whitout O. Can you consider this route as "no normal", considering the normal route the south face?
Thank you very much for your replies, will be a great help to me.
your friend, from Spain. ;D
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m.c. reinhardt

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #1 on: Mar 12 2006, 05:25 »

Dear friends and climbers partners,
first and foremost excuse me my english.  :_[
I´m spanish mountainer and I´m climbing this project, but climbing "no normals" routes. I was climb four mountains, Denali´03 (west rib), Aconcagua´04(variant alto-aragonesa, direct Polacos glacier), Elbrus´04(north face) and Kilimanjaro´04(umbwe-western breach)

Hi Marine
This sounds like a nice goal.  Do you have a web-site that documents your climbs of the 7 summits via non-normal routes?  If you don't, it would be a good idea as it is very inexpensive to start and run a site.  It does not need to be fancy...just trip reports and pix.

I´ll climb the Everest this spring. My first idea is climb the Norton Couloir, but... my question is the next. If I can´t climb this route if bad conditions, I´ll climb north east bridge alone and whitout O. Can you consider this route as "no normal", considering the normal route the south face?

Thank you very much for your replies, will be a great help to me.
your friend, from Spain. ;D

I am certainly not an expert but in my opinion I would have to say that the southeast ridge route is considered the "normal" route.  But if you want to be sure of climbing a non-standard route you could always join Dave Watson on the unclimbed Fantasy Ridge route!!!    :o    ;)    See the following link which shows all of the routes of Everest.  (You may have already seen this.)  Good luck on the big "E" this spring whichever route you end up doing.

MC
p.s. Regarding your use of the english language...I understood your post just fine.   :)
« Last Edit: Jul 7 2006, 01:01 by mc »
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m.c. reinhardt

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #2 on: Mar 12 2006, 07:37 »

Marine

If you read the above link that I just posted, according to Pete Poston for MountEverest.net, the SE ridge and the NE ridge are both considered to be the "normal" routes.  You may want to do more research on this matter.  Good luck and be "extra" prepared if you do the NE ridge alone and without O.  This seems dangerous.

All the best
MC
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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #3 on: Mar 12 2006, 16:02 »

Hi Marine,

though a bit harder than the South col Route, the NE ridge is still considered one of the 2 normal routes. You could do a variation of it of course, like Phil Ershler of Messner did, or go up from ABC directly to 7700m camp by one of the couloirs (avalanche risk).

That would definately make it not-normal  8)

Good luck and take care,
Harry
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Marine

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #4 on: Mar 12 2006, 19:16 »

Thank you very much for your replies. ;)
A lot of people think that only have a normal route in a mountain( the usually climbed), and this is my doubt. Because in this link that you have send me, is only one opinion? or is the thought generally in the alpine world?
Thank you for your help and your support.
And repling the other question, no I haven´t  web where the people can see this project. I have some newspaper´s articles. I´m making the new web. When I have it, I send you the link, ok? (but will be write in Spanish, I´m sorry , I´m in my second year learning enslish) :_[
Please send me your personal opinion. Because if the norton are dangerous by avalanches, what can I do?
I see you ...
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m.c. reinhardt

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #5 on: Mar 13 2006, 05:06 »

Marine

I was also under the assumption that each peak had one normal route.  But Everest may be one of the exceptions.  Pete Poston wrote the article on all routes of "E" for MountEverest.net so he must have some authority on this matter.  And Harry is currently guiding expeditions with Alexander Abramov on the NE ridge route of "E" and has many years of experience in mountaineering so I think their opinions would reflect those of what you call the "alpine world".  I do not know of any document that lists what routes are considered to be "the normal routes" for the 7 summits. (Might be nice if there were such a document.)
I was wondering, did you do the first four climbs of this project alone?  Is this part of your project?  Or are you just planning to do the NE ridge of Everest alone? (If you end up doing this route.)
Again, the best of luck on your climb of Everest and with the remaining peaks of the "7".

MC   :)
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Marine

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #6 on: Mar 13 2006, 21:38 »

Hi Hiker:
Except Kilimanjaro, that I was climbed with my wife. But my project, more than alone, is with out help, no porters, no oxigen, no cooks, etc... Except in Everest, because is necessary for a lot of days on mountain.
In Kili I was carried all my equipment (32 kg) :P only with guide, with out porters and my wife too. In Aconcagua I arrive to BC with out "mulas", in Elbrus I was climbed with out take the lifts, in december I´ll go to Vinson alone too, but is because...is coincidence,je, je. ;)
Best regards from Spain
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Mountain John

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #7 on: Mar 14 2006, 06:00 »

Hi Marine,

wow, you are a crazy man!  but good for you for doing the harder routes!  that is great.  yes, on Everest, the North side is just as normal as the south side.  maybe at one point it was not.  but now it definitely is.

wow, are you saying you did not take the Tram (gondola) on Elbrus?  in addition to the chairs?  wow again.

cheers mate
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Marine

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #8 on: Mar 14 2006, 15:53 »

Hi Jonh:
Thank you very much.
Yes, in Elbrus I was carry all my equipment from Terskol, the first day I arrive to end of the first lift and left any material under snow,and back down to sleep in Terskol, the second day go up to final of the second lift taking the material of the before day and come back to Terskol, the thrid day Take all material and go up to Barrels and the next day to Priut. Two days after to the north face and summit.
Is a bit more long and hard, but I climb my self. I was see a Scottish expedition who arrive to Priut by lift and snow cat, and when they go to summit, they take anther time the snow cat until Pastukov rokcs, and my question is... what mountain have they reach?
I don´t unworthy of who take the lift, but I can´t do it to reach one mountain the first time. If I come back to Elbrus, may be that take the lift (I don´t know). But I think that I never come back to this mountain, don´t like me. Very dirtiness and the russians don´t like neither. (very bad experiences with the russians, police, shops,...)we are only $$$$$ walking.
Bye, have a good climbing with yours efforts
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MikeW

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #9 on: Mar 15 2006, 20:58 »

Hey Marine!

Don't think you can go on Vinson alone. Impossible. A Japanese guy was trying to do the 7 Summits solo and tried last January when I was there. ALE wouldn't let him climb alone and assigned him a guide and the guide wouldn't even let the Japanese unrope himself on the glacier.

Unless you are a professionnal mountaineer with lots of experience in the Himalayas, they (ALE) don't let anybody oin Vinson alone due to rescue problems.

Good luck tough!

MikeW
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Nacho

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #10 on: Mar 16 2006, 02:12 »

Hey, Marine. I'm planning an expedition to the Denali's West Rib on june 2007, and I didn't find anyone who made it.
Yesterday I sent you an e-mail. I'm from Argentina, and my english is not very good. You can write in español if you want.

Por favor, mandame un mail a la direccion ignaciojcastro@yahoo.com.ar para que te pueda mandar las preguntas, a ver si me podes ayudar.
Gracias..

Marine

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Re: 7 summits by no normals routes
« Reply #11 on: Mar 16 2006, 03:36 »

Hola Nacho:

primero deja que te felicite por tu elección, porque si el tiempo se comporta con vosotros allí arriba, disfrutareis de lo lindo en esa ruta.

Por supuesto que puedes preguntarme cuanto quieras, estaré encantado de poder ayudarte en lo que pueda. Aunque también te digo que en estos últimos días antes de marchar a Tibet, no estaré muchos días en casa con acceso a internet y puede que tarde algún dia en responderte.

Recibe un fuerte abrazo y un saludo.

Namasté, Marine.

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