Partners needed > Denali

Summit pic on Denali

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MoT:
Oh, by the way Harry, I enjoyed your guidebook. Very handy!

7summits:
Hey MoT!

thanks for you remarks, did not know you were up there as well. Seems like a good call to turn around. Yes, any comments are welcome as well as that picture!
It still suprises me that I and many others cannot guide experienced climbers on Denali, while the concessionaires can just take up anybody they want, creating problems for others.

Hopefully my guidebook will show many people that maybe they are not ready yet for Denali, it is a big, cold and tough mountain (but beautiful).

Cheers,
Harry

ps: My new guidebook, about Everest, is out now, just got my copy this week, it looks great, when are you headed that way?

Charlie:
Congrats Mike! (Mike and I climbed Elbrus together in '04)

MoT, I haven't been on Denali, but unseen, just based on the Discovery channel's Everest series I would totally agree with you about the sad lack of screening that commercial operators do.  Let me play the devil's advocate, though: aren't the ropes put up and maintained by commercial operators?  If so, we really should not complain, only either thank them for allowing others to use them, or fix our own ropes or climb without ropes....  Anyway, I am conflicted about this as about other athletic endeavours.  Before injuries I used to run including marathons at around 3 h.  For the general public there is no difference between the achievement of a 7 h finisher who walked with occasional jogs and spent a few easy month preparing and my 80 mile a week for a half a year.  Part of me wants to say to them, don't show up for a marathon until you can get it under 4, 4:30.  Train, run shorter distances...  The other part of me thinks, this is fantastic that instead of watching TV they were out there training and now running the distance, that they are pushing their limits.  Granted they were not blocking my way and with that potentially put me in a dangerous situation.

MoT:

--- Quote from: Charlie on Jul 13 2009, 00:46 ---Congrats Mike! (Mike and I climbed Elbrus together in '04)

MoT, I haven't been on Denali, but unseen, just based on the Discovery channel's Everest series I would totally agree with you about the sad lack of screening that commercial operators do.  Let me play the devil's advocate, though: aren't the ropes put up and maintained by commercial operators?  If so, we really should not complain, only either thank them for allowing others to use them, or fix our own ropes or climb without ropes.... 

--- End quote ---

I don't know - if I go back I'll be thinking of the upper west rib. Self sufficient, no need for fixed ropes, just a reliable partner. Without those ropes, most muppets wouldn't get beyond basin camp. I would be happy enough with my climbing ability to get up without them, but they add a safety factor that you would be foolish to ignore.

MikeW:
Hi guys!

The ropes are maintained by the park rangers at the beginning of the season from what I heard, not the commercial operators. Yes most of the commercial groups are slower, but on the headwall, you lose maybe an hour because of it, it's not the end of the world. It would be foolish not to use them, it is a security factor.

It's not official yet but I'm looking more and more toward Everest 2010 on the south side. It's going to be unguided with a Nepalese operator.

MikeW

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