7 summits and other mountain stuff > Polls

Summiting Everest with oxygen increases chances of survival by 200%. Is it fair?

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Ron:
People who climb with oxygen are not acclimatized to the altitude they are on and then when something happens and oxygen runs out they are in big trouble.

Climbers who climb without it do not have that problem b/c they acclimatized properly.

Offcourse in case of HAPE it could be nice to have but then again you can feel problems coming up much better when you are climbing without and so react on it by the only good thing to do...and that is to descent and try it later. And taking oxygen with you so you can ignore the symptomes and stay at altitude is.........not smart (nicely said ;-)

trunl:
you do know crampons is spelled with a c, right?

Wild Rain:
I guess Anatoly Boukreev did answer to this question very well. "Oxygen Illusions"

Alan:
true dat

617:
It's not a question of "fair", it's simply reality.

If there was a highway to the summit of Everest I'd simply hop into my company car (BMW M5) and race to the top.

Now, I am not advocating that a highway is installed but if it was there, damn sure I'd take it:)

These "purists" are not pure in being true to themselves with respect to the REAL reasons for not taking oxygen... it's not a decision driven by oxygen and the merits of taking it or not, rather in most cases it's a decision driven by desire to "differentiate" from the rest.

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