Arbu
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« on: Jan 13 2004, 22:30 » |
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I'm climbing Aconcagua in February. Most sources seem to recommend wearing plastic boots, but I'm wondering how necessary this really is. I climbed Elbrus last summer in a pair of leather boots, Scarpa Mantas, we did most of it at night, it was absolutely freezing and very windy, but my feet were fine. So I wonder if plastic boots will really be necessary on Aconcagua. O.K. it's higher, but there's no snow, and it's at a lower latitude. So I'm wondering if I can get away without them. If I don't need them then I'd certainly rather not have to lug them all the way down the Hormones Valley.
Grateful for any advice.
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Ron
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« Reply #1 on: Jan 14 2004, 07:53 » |
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Nowerdays there are leather boots with inner shoes (isolation)...i would recommend those b/c they are warm enough but better they are more comfortable..a plastic boot walks like a ski boot a bit and thats not very nice. A good platic boot is the scarpa alpha b/c its very soft...otherwise look for leather boots from salomon or la sportiva for example..they have some expedition models with inner boots. Nothing wrong with using a leather boot (as long as its warm enough) on aconcagua
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trunl
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« Reply #2 on: Jan 20 2004, 00:35 » |
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never heard of the leather kind that you speak of, are they expensive?
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I say, just do what feels right.
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Ron
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« Reply #3 on: Jan 20 2004, 07:46 » |
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Yes they are...more expensive generally as a plastic boot. Have to look up the prices
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trunl
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« Reply #4 on: Jan 21 2004, 01:21 » |
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is it a big advantage?
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I say, just do what feels right.
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Ron
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« Reply #5 on: Jan 21 2004, 07:48 » |
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Yes ...they are much more comfertable to walk on. and they fit better.
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trunl
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« Reply #6 on: Jan 22 2004, 03:02 » |
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do u personally use them?
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I say, just do what feels right.
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Ron
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« Reply #7 on: Jan 22 2004, 07:45 » |
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I use neighter......for techinical climps in the alps i use scarpa freney shoes and for high altitude shoes i use the la sportiva olympus mons...a whole othet kind of shoe.....millet has them scarpa too www.lasportiva.combut i am planning to buy some
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trunl
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« Reply #8 on: Jan 25 2004, 17:59 » |
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what kind is the shoe you were talking about earlier?
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I say, just do what feels right.
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Ron
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« Reply #9 on: Jan 25 2004, 19:07 » |
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trunl
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« Reply #10 on: Jan 28 2004, 03:24 » |
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thanks for the link.
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I say, just do what feels right.
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7summits
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« Reply #11 on: Feb 2 2004, 12:17 » |
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I still firmly recommend against any non plastic/double boots on Aconcagua. Too many people had frostbitten toes due to sweaty leather boots that did not dry out during the short and cold night before summitday. You pass (short but wet) snowfields on all routes, so leather boots will always get wet, doesn't matter if there's a goretex lining, the moist will still be on and in the material and will freeze. Inner boots from plastics will dry in your sleeping bag, leathers normally won't (and are uncomfortable at night). Take care of your toes if you like to use them again!
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"He who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary." -- Friedrich Nietzsche
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Ron
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« Reply #12 on: Feb 7 2004, 22:25 » |
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you can put the inner boots of leather shoes in your sleeping bag aswell and if the leather gets hard...so? your plastic boot is allready that...they still will be more comfertable tha plastics..... Plastic boots are going to be something from the past (except for a few cases) in my view also when i look at the developments made by manufacturers (witch i follow professionally)
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7000
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« Reply #13 on: Feb 8 2004, 14:21 » |
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Which do you recommend... e.g. for Elbrus... Sportiva Nepal Tops OK? Also the 'light' version? you can put the inner boots of leather shoes in your sleeping bag aswell and if the leather gets hard...so? your plastic boot is allready that...they still will be more comfertable tha plastics..... Plastic boots are going to be something from the past (except for a few cases) in my view also when i look at the developments made by manufacturers (witch i follow professionally)
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Ron
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« Reply #14 on: Feb 8 2004, 16:25 » |
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well Nepal tops do not have inner shoes and i recommend ones with those. Certainly the nepal top isnt insulated..I suppose when you hit and run elbrus and can manage to keep the boot dry (supergaiter) then the Nepal extreme would be oke.
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trunl
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« Reply #15 on: Feb 8 2004, 23:12 » |
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so what if u lose one or two toes. its not the end of the world.
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I say, just do what feels right.
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trunl
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« Reply #17 on: Feb 10 2004, 00:54 » |
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i cant tell if u are being sarcastic. but i know i was.
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I say, just do what feels right.
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garyparker
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« Reply #18 on: Aug 28 2004, 11:19 » |
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Anyone used or recomend Freney XT for Aconcagua - opinions welcomed.
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Ron
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« Reply #19 on: Aug 28 2004, 17:08 » |
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the scarpa's you mean??? then nope..to cold
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MikeW
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« Reply #20 on: Oct 12 2004, 20:39 » |
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I'm planning to climb Aconcagua this January and I've been using the Salomon Pro Thermic leather boots with an inner shoes (so it's a double boot!  ) for the last 2 years. I had them on Elbrus and my toes were toasty  even with the bad temperatures that we had. MikeW
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Daisy
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« Reply #21 on: Oct 12 2004, 21:17 » |
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Hi MikeW
I just invested in a pair of plastics by Scarpa with high altitude liners for Aconcagua. I really hope they'll be warm enough because I get really cold.
Ron, Do you sell these? are they reccommended? have you had any bad feedback about them? Also, it's really really hard to get gear for girls here in Ireland, especially gloves. I ordered some mitts months ago but I'm still waiting. You can only buy gear either in big sizes or for men where I live.
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“Today, it is still not hard to find a man who will adventure for the sake of a dream or one who will search, for the pleasure of searching, and not for what he may find.” Sir Edmund Hillary
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Ron
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« Reply #22 on: Oct 12 2004, 21:32 » |
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Hey daisy, Did you buy the scarpa alpha or the scarpa vega. Well either way. With a special high altitude liner they are oke boots for Aconcagua....i would not use them on everest. We have specialized shops here in Holland called "womens outdoor world". To bad its difficult to find it in Irelnad. Anyway even here its difficult to get the special expedition stuff in smal woman sizes. take a look at http://www.outdoorresearch.com/home/page/or_womenThey make wonderful gear for serious outdoor woman.
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7summits
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« Reply #23 on: Oct 13 2004, 09:15 » |
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Hi MikeW
I just invested in a pair of plastics by Scarpa with high altitude liners for Aconcagua. I really hope they'll be warm enough because I get really cold.
Ron, Do you sell these? are they reccommended? have you had any bad feedback about them? Also, it's really really hard to get gear for girls here in Ireland, especially gloves. I ordered some mitts months ago but I'm still waiting. You can only buy gear either in big sizes or for men where I live.
Hi Daisy, I used the Scarpa inverno/vega (same) with HA liners twice on Aconcagua, they take you to the summit without problem  Seriously, they are heavy but warm and you will not twist an ankle on those bloody rocks and scree in the canaleta  Do not forget to take out the liners every night and dry them out in your sleeping bag, they will be dry very soon and warmer the next morning.
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"He who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary." -- Friedrich Nietzsche
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Daisy
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« Reply #24 on: Oct 13 2004, 09:16 » |
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Thanks Ron,
I got the scarpa vega...
And thanks for the link!
Daisy
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“Today, it is still not hard to find a man who will adventure for the sake of a dream or one who will search, for the pleasure of searching, and not for what he may find.” Sir Edmund Hillary
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ICAN
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« Reply #25 on: Mar 5 2005, 21:02 » |
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I am off to Aconcagua in December, I have for the moment, Ladies Sportiva Nepal Extremes, from what I am reading above, I guess I should be looking for plastics??
As I already have the Nepals for my other climbs in and around the alps etc. I am thinking the plastics are also going to complete my gear for when I move up to colder higher climbs...
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