Boot Sizes and Socks

[MaYhEm]

Hi,

I'm new to climbing and am curious about boot sizes and socks.  I've heard that your feet expand on high altitude trips, so say I was going to Elbrus or Denali, should i be looking for a boot size 2 sizes bigger than my normal?  Plus, is 1 pair of socks enough to keep your feet warm, or should be 2 pairs be worn.
Any suggestions would be great! thanks!

[Ron]

1st i never had any "expanding" feet on altitude and i do not know anyone who had.I heard rumoers of one guy having that problem but i think its an exception. i would recommend boots that fit.
So i take the size as i would take a normal heavy climbing or hiking boot. Witch is .5 or 1 size bigger then normal b/c off space needed at the toe area. (for going downhill) Keep in mind that the heel must not slip (witch would be the case when to big) b/c that would create a blister problem.
2nd socks these days are so good that you could consider wearing 1 pair (i prefer the smartwool mountaineer) but a very thin liner sock could be worn in addition to keep feet more dry and warm.

[MaYhEm]

Thanks for the advice Ron.  Ya the expanding feet thing i was unsure about.  I read about it on a post on this website a while back... I must have totally read it wrong.  Good Luck on Everest!

[Buddha]

I have a Q for Dr. Gear..

My feet at 30.0 cm long, so pretty big. I want to buy me a set of new boots, the ones I've looked at on the web is Millet Everest GTX and La Sportiva Olympus Mons. I dno't have any chance of trying them on since I would have to buy them over the internet.

What size would you recommend to me? Are you selling any of these boots where you work?

As I see it, the Millet Everest GTX would be to prefer since it's about half prize compared to the La Sportiva Olympus Mons and both of them are kick-ass boots...

1st i never had any "expanding" feet on altitude and i do not know anyone who had.I heard rumoers of one guy having that problem but i think its an exception. i would recommend boots that fit.
So i take the size as i would take a normal heavy climbing or hiking boot. Witch is .5 or 1 size bigger then normal b/c off space needed at the toe area. (for going downhill) Keep in mind that the heel must not slip (witch would be the case when to big) b/c that would create a blister problem.
2nd socks these days are so good that you could consider wearing 1 pair (i prefer the smartwool mountaineer) but a very thin liner sock could be worn in addition to keep feet more dry and warm.

[7summits]

Hey Buddha,

I know what DR Gear will advice as he has the Olympus Mons himself 
I have the Millet myself.
Main difference is that Olympus mons have a bit narrower fit; they are a bit more flexible, therefore easier to fronpouint etc with. Millet is supposed to be e bit warmer (-50C compared to -40C or so...)
Anyway, both boots are really only needed if you climb above 7000m or in Alaska, so only get them if you need them as they are both big and clumsy 

Do not buy them online; these boots are not made in large numbers so even 2 pairs of the same type and size can differ andf make the difference between (no) blisters or (no) frozen toes. If needed, go to anothe country where you can try them on, walk around for at least half an hour, before choosing type and size.
I know Ron will be happy to sell either of them in Bever Tilburg or The Hague 

Just my 2 cents...

Ps: Millet were very warm, the goretex tears easily, and even though they are big, the are relatively light & I had no problem using them on crappy rocks in either Pakistan or Everest this year...

[Buddha]

Well, I have a few years left before I tackle those high mountains in the Himalayas. Maybe I should go for something like the Koflach Arctis Expe instead then in the meanwhile. It's just that I rather buy boots that can be used on all expeditions since they are quite costly and I don't have a sponsorship!

[Ron]

The main differance between the millet and the La Sprotiva is that you can climb technical demanding routes with the lasportiva b/c of his narrower and thus better fit.

For size harry is right. They do differ in sizes b/c its mostly handmade and in small numbers produced. Also a moutaineering boot normally is 1/2 or a full sizze bigger (sometimes 1 1/2) then normal boot size b/c of the room you need during descent. What for is best depends on the shape (narrow or wide) of the foor.
If its narrow you need a bigger size. If its wide you can go often 1/2 a size down b/c the foor wont slide forward touching the front of the boot.

My advice. Make a climbing trip to chamonix. There they have the millet on stock in most sizes. Also the la sportiva but the popular sizes are sold rather fast. They also have some other brands like scarpa often. You can fit it there (use your own thick socks)and in the mean time climb some nice routes in the mt blanc massif

[Buddha]

Is the Smartwool Mountaineer sock enough, even for places like Denali?

[Ron]

thats the right 1 m8

[Buddha]

Well, I did maybe a stupid thing but since I won't be going to Chamonix this fall or winter I decided to at least try out a pair of La Sportiva Olympus Mons.
So, I ordered the largest size (47) from a Swedish company that currently has 30% off on normal prizes. Good thing is that if they don't fit I can just send them back and get my cash back. I'll save some cash on the airfare/hotel and if they fit, even better!

Thanks to Swedish laws all the purchases that you make online you can turn back to the company you bought it from within 14 days and get the cash back, no questions asked.