, the Spanish/Venezualan 7summiteer, sent to Everest climber Byron Smith.
It is mainly self explanatory, but 7summits is involved as we have been working hard to get new CP expeditions going (the contact mentioned is our man in Indonesia) and actions like these are messing that up...
This is an open e.mail to Mr. Byron Smith of Vulcan, Alberta, Canada, and expresses my views (and personal consequences) on his article on climbing Carstensz Pyramid.
Byron Smith,
I am returning from Australia, after having completed my Seventh Summit (Kosciuszko version). Nevertheless, I also passed through Indonesia, because my idea was also to climb Carstensz Pyramid. I had been invited (just as you and others were before), and because of you, those of us waiting for our opportunity to climb the Carstensz Pyramid, were utterly frustrated.
Next April I shall turn 71 years of age: completing my Seven Summits has been a cherished dream of mine.
The days before my trip a friend sent me the following web page:
http://everestnews.com/4002expcoverage/cpbryon12032003.htm I was amazed and extremely worried because, quite evidently, these were critical and grave statements on a very delicate matter…placed in front on anyone with access to internet!
I decided no to mention any of this to the person who had invited me (who is, and you know this, the same person who had invited you!), and just prayed for things to remain on track.
Everything went well until we reached Timika (we had no problem at all with the security agents, those that, judging by your words, you were able to fool by photographing them… (are these people stupid?).
Anyway my fears materialized the day before we were scheduled to leave for the Carstensz Pyramid’s Base Camp. An authority showed up with your story (all 18 pages of it!) where you describe your “war and espionage movie”.
Look, Byron, in order to attempt Carstensz Pyramid, your host asked you for the utmost discretion and reserve…well, you betrayed him!.
You contradict yourself in the article on several occasions. Besides you try to prove how you were the magical solution to certain problems, and this is simply not true. You were just one of the four climbers that formed the group, no more, no less. None of you were in danger as you try so hard to have us believe. The true danger (moral and economical) is the one you brought upon the people who gave you the opportunity to climb that mountain (believe me: that is one decision they sorely regret). They were the ones coming up with the solutions. You write, among other sad and biased appreciations, with the utmost disdain about the Third World. That is your culture. You should ponder on the fact that the First World wouldn’t probably crumble if it were not for that “despicable and corrupt” third World. Did it ever occur to you that, in order for corruption to exist, you require at least two parties?. Who is guiltier? What party did you represent in the case you pictured on your article? And are you naïve enough to believe that corruption is only a problem of the Third World?
I have remained in contact with the person who invited you (yes, man, invited you and invited me), because I am sincerely interested in how he is trying to cope with the tremendous ordeal caused by your selfishness. I had the pleasure of talking to him during the days of our ill-fated trip, verify his human qualities and those of his staff. It would have done you a great deal of good to look sincerely into the way of life of these persons. Your eyes and mind never left your objective: climb that mountain and to hell with everything else.
Your selfishness has never allowed you to see that most of those great mountains you have climbed (and that have given you the status you like to boast) are all in the Third World. People of those parts of the world guided you there, for God’s sake!. You don’t have the least consideration.
What kind of person are you?
What will every potential Carstensz Pyramid climber think and conclude on the fact that you single-handedly shattered his or her opportunity? The only way to precede in this case was the utmost discretion. This way nobody was put at risk … and then came you, dear Byron.
The person you left in such turmoil write to me, among other things:
“””I do really appreciate your kind help to write Byron a letter, at least to let him knows that what he has done brings a very bad impact to me and my family also my business. He also has jeopardy many people's live and caused you, Mr. James and Mr. Henrik losed an opportunity to cliumb the mountain.
I just hope he would realized that he has done something very bad to me and other people who has encourage our self to help people with high risk of losing jobs just to help them to materialized their dream to climb CP.
Please tell him that even he doesn't mention any names but it was so claerly that all the ARMY guys who helped him was easy recognised from the article as he mentione ranges, positions, post and their unit. Again this is very stupid and Freeport is smart enough to find out all the actors behind this project.
Because of this, now is very little chace left for me to be able to run the CP Climb with such arrangement in the future.
He must know that besides caused me a financial loss (also to you, Mr. james and Mr. Henrik), this was also makes me losing my credibility as I understand that people would think that I'm not a trustable person and not professional on this business.
He also need to know that I have been doing same arrangement for the last 6 CP Climbs I led in 2002 and NONE of them ever published the story of how the approached the mountain area or how they can get there. Even some of them were sponsored, they still can keep everything confidentially and all of them as I noticed just say that they did it throu Singa or other route NEVER mentioned about the MINE!
Tell him that HE IS NOT THE ONLY PERSON ever experienced such things, there are many great climber, greater than him ever done the same thing but they appreciate out hard work and willing to keep everything confidentially. The point is other can keep thier words as they appreciate our help but he did not!
Please apologize Mr. Ramon, I do not mean to address such complain to you but just would like to have your kind help to explain to Byron how bad the situation that caused by his article!
Thank you very much for your time and kind attention Sir. It always be my pleasure to read an email from you Sir, so please write to me anytime at your conveneient.”””
Best Wishes,
NOVA
Byron, I have always climbed for the love of climbing. Something tells me you do it mainly to show-off. There is an unwritten mountaineer’s code of honor;: “share with your fellow mountaineers and cooperate with them in order to better develop our sport”. Sorry for you, man, your selfishness does not allow you to embrace these ideas. I wonder if you are really sure that you are what you try to represent. Sorry, man, a sad example.
Ramón Blanco
www.ramonblanco.comThe statement above is Mr Blanco's opinion and these are his words. He requested me to post this for him, as it's his right to voice his opinion and as I see no untruths in this and the events mentioned are affecting our Carstensz Pyramid trips I have posted this, but am not responsible for the actual wording of the letter, nor for any negative result because of it.