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Author Topic: everest solo, alpine style without oxygen  (Read 11654 times)

jarle traa

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everest solo, alpine style without oxygen
« on: Feb 18 2004, 01:38 »

I am planning to climb everest solo, alpine style without o2 (northridge) next year.  I can`t find statistics on how many has done this before.  Is there any statistics about this somewhere on the net?
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Ron

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Re:everest solo, alpine style without oxygen
« Reply #1 on: Feb 18 2004, 03:29 »

Hi M8,

Im leaving to try that 1 this year on the 25th of March. But not solo..we are trying it with 3 climbers and 1 climbing sherpa so a team of 4.... no Sherpa's to make camps and stuff.
To my knowledge only 59 people summited without addtional O2. From all sides that is...I would not know about the north side only and alpine stuly though.
« Last Edit: Feb 18 2004, 14:01 by Ron »
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Re:everest solo, alpine style without oxygen
« Reply #2 on: Feb 18 2004, 18:01 »

Again this is kind of an academic discussion: what is Solo & Alpine.
I think the following aspects are beyond discussion:
- one (wo)man team
- No sherpa or porter help
Debatable are:
- Fixed camps ie more than one tent
- assistance to get yourself and gear to BC
- use of fixed lines, ladders etc you did not place yourself.
- other people on the mountain at the same time

Messner was the only climber who truly soloed as he was the only person on the mountain at the time! Very tough to beat that... but I do not know if he used the Chinese ladder at the 2nd step (where did he enter the ridge?). I think that any use of gear left by others is not really soloing. On the other hand in the end everybody soloes who is not dragged up a mountain, you still have to do that yourself..

Also Goran Kropp (see the books section) almost really soloed as he cycled all the way from his home, carried all his stuff to basecamp himself (even messner did not do this) climbed teh icefall using his own route (so not doing the fixed ladders) and soloed to the top. Well, that is , he turned back just below the summit and returned a few days later. But when returning he used the ladders as his own route was avalanched away....

And how solo is it if you know that there are always other climbers near you to help if needed?
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Erik Ravenstijn

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Re:everest solo, alpine style without oxygen
« Reply #3 on: Feb 24 2004, 22:50 »

I am planning to climb everest solo, alpine style without o2 (northridge) next year.  I can`t find statistics on how many has done this before.  Is there any statistics about this somewhere on the net?

At www.bielefeld.com you can find all statistics ;)
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Re:everest solo, alpine style without oxygen
« Reply #4 on: Feb 24 2004, 23:02 »

At www.bielefeld.com you can find all statistics ;)

Hey Erik, I guess you mean http://www.bielefeldt.de/everestse.htm from Hartmut? (or are you spamming the forum  ;))

Adventurestats has details as well, but not about solos as this is more a definition question...
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trunl

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Re:everest solo, alpine style without oxygen
« Reply #5 on: Mar 16 2004, 06:31 »

its never been done on k2.
that is:
The mountain still awaits a true "alpine-style" ascent, from bottom to top without the aid of fixed camps, fixed ropes, or bottled oxygen.

 There has been no traverse linking the obvious North Ridge and Abruzzi Spur routes.

There has been no winter ascent of any route.
Many of the ridge routes take significant deviations in line, so direct ascents are still open.

None of the West, North, or East Faces have had a direct ascent.

No one has completed a circumnavigation of K2

gotten off of www.k2climb.net.
if you want the record, go to k2.
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