7summits forum!

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Oxygen on Everest: wise?  (Read 7798 times)

7summits

  • 7 down, 0 to go!
  • Administrator
  • 7Summiteer!
  • *******
  • Altitude: 3
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1152
  • Greetings from tha lowlands
    • The 7 summits pages
Oxygen on Everest: wise?
« on: Jan 31 2002, 02:18 »

One of the poll questions is about whether to use oxygen while ascending Everest.

Professor Huey has researched this issue and his findings can be found here: http://jama.ama-assn.org/issues/v284n2/ffull/jlt0712-7.html, but the main conclusions can also be found in the diagram below.

Makes you think again, doesn't it?
 ;)

Keep climbing, any way you like, but remember you have to return safely to be able to tell the story...
« Last Edit: Jan 31 2002, 02:19 by 7summits »
Logged
"He who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary." -- Friedrich Nietzsche

MoT

  • Climber
  • ****
  • Altitude: 8
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 247
    • TightropeNET
Re:Oxygen on Everest: wise?
« Reply #1 on: Jan 31 2002, 23:18 »

Interesting, but does this study exclude deaths, for example, from avalanches, poor weather conditions, falling rocks, falls etc., summit fever (although hypoxia may cloud some people's judgement somewhat)  which may not have anything to do with lack of oxygen?
Logged

7summits

  • 7 down, 0 to go!
  • Administrator
  • 7Summiteer!
  • *******
  • Altitude: 3
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1152
  • Greetings from tha lowlands
    • The 7 summits pages
Re:Oxygen on Everest: wise?
« Reply #2 on: Feb 1 2002, 04:15 »


Interesting, but does this study exclude deaths, for example, from avalanches, poor weather conditions, falling rocks, falls etc., summit fever (although hypoxia may cloud some people's judgement somewhat)  which may not have anything to do with lack of oxygen?


Hi MoT,

the researcher state the following:
We used exact logistic regression (conditional maximum likelihood) with survival as the dependent variable and supplemental oxygen (used and not used) as a factor, stratified by mountain (Everest and K2).

So whether the weather was good or bad etc is not relevant as it wil strike both climbers with and without oxygen.
Beacuse all the 'objective' conditions (clothing, weather, altitude) are equal except the use of oxygen they make the connection between the factor and the dependent outcome: between the use of oxygen and the # of deaths.

Furthermore if you take all the avalanches and 'low altitude' deaths out than the difference between (non) oxygen would be even bigger I think.

But then again we could argue that anyone climbing without oxygen, takes more risks in general and therefore has a higher chance of dying anyway...?

I think it's an interesting issue, especially in a moral sense: what is the definition of high altitude mountaineering: does it include all possible means to make the body happy (clothing & gear including oxygen), or should oxygen be excluded as this is one of the main factors of altitude itself? But should down and other warm clothing be banned as well as cold is also one of the main features of altitude?

And should all meams possible be used to get up and down alive? Or is that taking away the fun of the sport? Siege style vs Alpine style etc...

Any input welcome  ;)

Thanks and keep climbing,
Harry
Logged
"He who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary." -- Friedrich Nietzsche

trunl

  • Guest
Re:Oxygen on Everest: wise?
« Reply #3 on: Oct 9 2003, 04:00 »

interesting study, i thought the death rate without the use of oxygen was higher
Logged

Jerico

  • Guest
Re: Oxygen on Everest: wise?
« Reply #4 on: Sep 28 2004, 02:29 »

I don't believe much can really be determined from these brief numbers. Even if one were to agree that they came purely from the usage, or non usage, of oxygen it is pretty well a fruitless endeavor. I believe you might find many more less experienced climbers not using oxygen. I'm not saying anyone who uses oxygen is inexperienced, however you're not likely to find someone without a lot of high-altitude experience climbing without oxygen. I think this is also reflected in the more than double amount of climbers on K2 without oxygen. K2 generally attracts those who climb for the climb, not for whatever other reason that beckons us to the most dangerous places on the planet.
Logged

Jerico

  • Guest
Re: Oxygen on Everest: wise?
« Reply #5 on: Sep 28 2004, 02:32 »

I said that wrong...

"I believe you might find many more less experienced climbers not using oxygen."

What I meant was...

I believe you might find many more less experienced climbers DO use oxygen.

Anyway my point is, I think these numbers simply reflect the kinds of climbers that do and don't use oxygen, rather than the oxygen itself.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.096 seconds with 23 queries.