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Author Topic: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?  (Read 32466 times)

Buddha

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Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« on: Sep 24 2004, 10:20 »

Hi there,

As you all know we have at least 2 members on the forum that have tried to climb to the top of the world.

I for one think it would be extremely interesting in finding out all the stuff needed before they could actually start climbing, such as what kind of gear did they use, did they go with an agency organized clim or set one together themselves? How long did they plan the expedition and what kind of training did they do in order to prepare for the climb? How much money did the expedition cost and of those money, how much was for gear and such things?

I hope that someone of the climbers take some time and answer this question...

// Buddha
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Ron

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #1 on: Sep 24 2004, 15:19 »

Hey dude,

im willing to answer a lot of questions..no problemo...but not like typing a whole story here. So i cant answer all the questions you put on this post, but i can answer them individually.
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Buddha

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #2 on: Sep 24 2004, 17:00 »

Darn, and I who wanted a small novel to read...

Sure, here goes...

1. At what time did you really, I mean really, make up your mind for Everest?

2. Gear is important. What kind of clothing brand did you use, and if possible even specify model. Base, middle and shell...

3. Shoes.. which kind? Did you go for Millet or Koflach or something else?

4. What kind of tents did you use and how many tents did you bring with you?

5. Did you go through and agency or set everything up yourself? If set up by yourself, how did you find reliable sherpas and yakdrivers?

6. What's the approximate cost that YOU spent on gear?

7. How many sponsors did you have and if you got stuff from them, what kind of stuff?

8. What's the approximate cost for the climbing permit and sherpa's and such things, ie. everything except flight and gear costs?

Wow, a lot of questions...

Thanks, Buddha
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Ron

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #3 on: Sep 24 2004, 22:47 »

1. At what time did you really, I mean really, make up your mind for Everest?

About September 2003. it was always on mt "nice things to do list" but then an oppertunity came by and i took it with both hands. I went a a profesional climber with full sponsorship and support in a pro team. So not a commercial expedition.

2. Gear is important. What kind of clothing brand did you use, and if possible even specify model. Base, middle and shell...

Well The North Face was our main sponsor...and they provided us with just about everthing gear wise. Also gear sponsors were MSR,Icebreaker and Black Diamond.
Base was Icebreaker underwear..top merino wool (doesnt smell after even 3 weeks) ;D
Mid layer. Polartec 100 fleece and thikker icebreaker.
Shell. Low on the mountain. APEX sofshell...higher GTX XCR clothing...high..Himalayan downsuit (your life insurance on extreme altitude)

3. Shoes.. which kind? Did you go for Millet or Koflach or something else?

I did go for the La Sportiva Olympus Mons. Kinda like the Millet only with a much better fit and also more suitable for technical climbs.

4. What kind of tents did you use and how many tents did you bring with you?

13 tents. We had in BC and ABC a north face VE 25 for ourselves (you can use privecy when being away for 10 weeks). In camp 1 a VE25 with 3 people .On higer camps we slept in mountain 25 tents with 2-3 people.

5. Did you go through and agency or set everything up yourself? If set up by yourself, how did you find reliable sherpas and yakdrivers?

We used a local trekking buro named Pumori treks.Based Kathmandu www.mtpumori.com They took care of the local organisation, finding the high altitude sherpa and arranging stuff to cross the border to Tibet (we did north side) and so on. We also could get a cheaper permit that way b/c we split it with few other small expeditions so the price is low.

6. What's the approximate cost that YOU spent on gear?

I spent nothing on gear. As i said i was sponsored fully. If you have to buy everything then i would say at least 10.000. but thats a wild guess b/c i dont dare to calculate it ;-)

7. How many sponsors did you have and if you got stuff from them, what kind of stuff?

Told you about the gear sponsors. We also had 1 main sponsor...a diary company, 2nd largest in Hollad and who wanted a stronger image and becoming #1 .Also 5 smaller sponsers with labels on our clothing. They paid a big amount of money too. AMong them a phamacutacal company, ICT company, Finacial advice&suppor company. We had many smal sponsors like France telecom for our sat phones , DHL who took care of the Cargo. Bever Zwerfsport a outdoor retail company (my Boss) with gear and so on.

8. What's the approximate cost for the climbing permit and sherpa's and such things, ie. everything except flight and gear costs?

North side about 6000-7000 USD p/person on a climbing permit with 8 people. about 2000-2500 for the trekking company. A high altitude sherpa 2500-3500 boneses not included and that can go up to more then 1000. (1000 was the summit bonus for our sherpa) They get extra for each time they go up and make a trip to the higher camps. Flight about 1500 USD...gear....see above.

Offcourse with all the sponsor ship being involved, making a Television documentary (we had 2 times 30 minutes prime time broadcasts in Holland) and all the news papares and websides, local radio and tv station following us an interviewing us our costs were also higher. The batteries, cameras,solar panels, laptops, sat modum and paying for all the data traffic.  etc  etc.

Damm i hate typing :?) :eek)
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Buddha

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #4 on: Sep 29 2004, 04:32 »

Well The North Face was our main sponsor...and they provided us with just about everthing gear wise. Also gear sponsors were MSR,Icebreaker and Black Diamond.
Base was Icebreaker underwear..top merino wool (doesnt smell after even 3 weeks) ;D
Mid layer. Polartec 100 fleece and thikker icebreaker.
Shell. Low on the mountain. APEX sofshell...higher GTX XCR clothing...high..Himalayan downsuit (your life insurance on extreme altitude)

What TNF GTX XCR clothing did you use?
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Ron

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #5 on: Sep 29 2004, 12:36 »

The mountainbib and infusion jacket....very nice gear. ;)
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Buddha

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #6 on: Oct 7 2004, 03:22 »

I finally came up with some more questions!  :P

1. What kind of goggles did you use, if any? Otherwise, what kind of eye-wear dod you use?

2. Which kind of crampons did you have?

3. Ice-axes are great and necessary on Everest and many other mountains. First thing you need to do is learn how to self-arrest... Some axes are more suited for high-altitude climbs then other... Which one did you choose?

4. Water is good to drink, especially on high and extreme altitude. What kind of bottles/parkas did you use in order to have liquid water at all times and prevent it from freezing? Or did you heat up snow and ice each time it was time for a drink?
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Ron

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #7 on: Oct 8 2004, 12:43 »

1. Cebe Ski googles for bad wheater with a orange high contrast lens and lower on the mountain The north face sunglasses and Cebe Glacier glasses. Dont know the typs really....we got them in our sponsor package. I can look that up if ya want.

At home i also use Oackley a lot in the alps (and for skiing and other sport like ATB.)

2. Black diamond sabretooth with anti bolling plates (anti bolling is a must have in my opinion) They offcourse because of the sponsor. At home i also use very lightweight Simond alumnium crampons (also on denali i used them) and for technical climbing in the alps i use the DMM terminator.

3. We used the Black diamond Raven Pro...very nice. strong and light weigt

4. During trips i had 1,5 ltr max with me. Offcourse we melted snow in every camp (for hours and hours  :?)) I used a stainless steel thermal bottle high up (yes heavy but thtas the best) Lower on the mountain were temp were not so low i used a nalgene bottle with thermal cover and/or Platypus drinking bags.
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MikeW

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #8 on: Oct 8 2004, 19:33 »

Hey I could climb Everest! I've got the glacier glasses, the Oackley goggles, the Black Diamond Sabretooth crampons and the Black Diamond Raven Pro ice axe ;D.

OK, I need also a lot of money and maybe a little bit more experience ;).

MikeW
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Buddha

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #9 on: Oct 8 2004, 19:46 »

1. Cebe Ski googles for bad wheater with a orange high contrast lens and lower on the mountain The north face sunglasses and Cebe Glacier glasses. Dont know the typs really....we got them in our sponsor package. I can look that up if ya want.

At home i also use Oackley a lot in the alps (and for skiing and other sport like ATB.)

4. During trips i had 1,5 ltr max with me. Offcourse we melted snow in every camp (for hours and hours  :?)) I used a stainless steel thermal bottle high up (yes heavy but thtas the best) Lower on the mountain were temp were not so low i used a nalgene bottle with thermal cover and/or Platypus drinking bags.

It would be great to know what goggles you used!
When on the mountain did you use gas or white gasoline for your stoves? Here everyone recommend us to have white gasoline only since according to most people gas isn't reliable enough.
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Ron

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #10 on: Oct 8 2004, 22:52 »

Ill get back on the glasses later but any cat 4 is oke.

Don t know who told you about gasoline but its a definite NO NO.
It does NOT work above 7000, You will have no problems on 6000m but on 7000 it aint working good nomore. EVERYONE uses Gas. Its reliable and its works oke. The presure differance is so great that it will come out an burn even at low temps. No fooling around with gasoline and stuff, dirty hands, pumping it up and the stress of a non funtioning burner. Just a gascan and a smal burner and your oke.
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Buddha

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #11 on: Oct 9 2004, 01:35 »

So, instead of buying the "big" and more heavier Primus Himalaya OmniFuel I should go for the Primus Alpine Titanium gas-stove weighing in at 85 grams?

So, gas is actually better? I never would have guessed since everyone is saying NO NO to it here in Sweden... based not upon altitude but temperature!
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Ron

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #12 on: Oct 9 2004, 04:31 »

I remeber some norwegian having gasoliene stoves or something

But believe me..gas is better. Offcourse on sealevel normal gas stops at 4C (camping gaz, primus gas holds to 0 C and MSR ISOpro till -20C) but b/c of the high altitude the pressure differance makes the gas come out and burn so np there. i would defenitly go for the gas burner
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Corsair

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #13 on: Oct 9 2004, 04:49 »

Agreed on that Ron.
Primus multi...have had some bad experiences with that one btw. Doesn't run very well on dirty fuel and goes on strike earlier than an XGK when ascending to higher elevations. I go with a MSR XGK running on gasoline to approx. 5500-6000m, then it's time to change to gas.
Why bring a gasoline stove at all?
Less weight and volume for cooking and melting snow on lower elevations. It's worth it.
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Buddha

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #14 on: Oct 27 2004, 03:59 »

Ron, have you checked on which kind of goggles you were using or? I've e-mailed both Bollé and Cébe to get an answer on which goggles would be best suited for extreme altitude.

Maybe Harry can share with his experiences on goggles as well?

As for glacier glasses I have a pair of Cébe Cecchinel 4000. Very nice in my humble opinion.

What harness did you guys go for? The ones I'm looking at are Black Diamond Blizzard and Black Diamond Alpine Bod. Still don't know which one to use though.

I'm not going to attempt Mt. Everest in a few years but one might as well get the good equipment straight away since I am buying this kind of gear anyhow. Why cheap out?

I'm a little confused as to helmets, are they necessary for mountains like Aconcagua and Elbrus? If so, will my BD Half Dome be ok or do I need something else?

What about headlamps? I was thinking about the Tikka Plus but have turned more to BD Polar Star. Ok, it's a bit on the heavy side but damn it can light up my way to the summit ;) Also I like the idea of being able to have the batterypack close to your body.

What more... Ohh yeah! Backpacks. I hate the one I have now! It's heavy and only like 60-65 litres. I would like to have a backpack, internal framing with at least 90 litres capacity. The one I've looked at is Arc'Teryx Bora 95 which is extremely nice, but expensive and maybe a bit on the heavy side. Which is the best one for mountaineering. I'm carrying everything myself so drop the thoughts about Sherpas carrying stuff for me.  :P It would be nice if it had a daypack attached, like the Bora 95. Of course I want possibilites for hydration system and ability to attach ice-axe and trekkingpoles.

Hope you can help!
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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #15 on: Oct 27 2004, 04:38 »

Ron, have you checked on which kind of goggles you were using or? I've e-mailed both Bollé and Cébe to get an answer on which goggles would be best suited for extreme altitude.

Maybe Harry can share with his experiences on goggles as well?

I use CeBe goggles, with an orange lense for contrast, think it's the Freeride. Have not worn them in Pakistan nor on Everest actually, weather must turn reallllly bad, will I use googles. Even in light blizzards I normallu stuill wear my glacier glasses, this year I wore the new TNF glasses, very good.

Quote
What harness did you guys go for? The ones I'm looking at are Black Diamond Blizzard and Black Diamond Alpine Bod. Still don't know which one to use though.

I'm not going to attempt Mt. Everest in a few years but one might as well get the good equipment straight away since I am buying this kind of gear anyhow. Why cheap out?

I took the BD Alpine bod, worked like a charm and must be the lightest around. Good leg click system which is useful for cramponed boots/down suits.

Quote
I'm a little confused as to helmets, are they necessary for mountains like Aconcagua and Elbrus? If so, will my BD Half Dome be ok or do I need something else?

You only really need a helmet on any of the 7 summits besides Carstensz if you are in a party fixing ropes, else it is not really needed. Of course it does always protects you in case of a fall.

Quote
What about headlamps? I was thinking about the Tikka Plus but have turned more to BD Polar Star. Ok, it's a bit on the heavy side but damn it can light up my way to the summit ;) Also I like the idea of being able to have the batterypack close to your body.
Anything heavy sucks  8) Go for the Tikka plus and bring some lithium batteries, they are available now in AAA as well and have no problem with the cold.

Quote
What more... Ohh yeah! Backpacks. I hate the one I have now! It's heavy and only like 60-65 litres. I would like to have a backpack, internal framing with at least 90 litres capacity. The one I've looked at is Arc'Teryx Bora 95 which is extremely nice, but expensive and maybe a bit on the heavy side. Which is the best one for mountaineering. I'm carrying everything myself so drop the thoughts about Sherpas carrying stuff for me.  :P It would be nice if it had a daypack attached, like the Bora 95. Of course I want possibilites for hydration system and ability to attach ice-axe and trekkingpoles.

Hope you can help!

You will change your mind about Sherpas once you get above 7000m  ;D
Anyway, unless you plan on going hiking for a week or more in the wilderness, a 90 liter pack is never needed. You will just bring too much and it will be too heavy to have fun.
On Everest you will have enough with a 40-50 liter pack as you will not carry up more than it can take (and mine could still take over 20kgs). I took a Dutch Handmade bag: the Ice job from Radical Design which can be used on ice climbing routes as well, but is less useful for hauling really big loads.
You might need seperate packs for different activities.
 O0
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Ron

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #16 on: Oct 27 2004, 04:51 »

Ron, have you checked on which kind of goggles you were using or? I've e-mailed both Bollé and Cébe to get an answer on which goggles would be best suited for extreme altitude.
No Buddha but any well fitting class 4 glasses will do.
Quote


What harness did you guys go for? The ones I'm looking at are Black Diamond Blizzard and Black Diamond Alpine Bod. Still don't know which one to use though.

Used the smae BD harness. Simple to put on wearing all the gear.
Quote

I'm not going to attempt Mt. Everest in a few years but one might as well get the good equipment straight away since I am buying this kind of gear anyhow. Why cheap out?

I'm a little confused as to helmets, are they necessary for mountains like Aconcagua and Elbrus? If so, will my BD Half Dome be ok or do I need something else?
No helmets needed
Quote
What about headlamps? I was thinking about the Tikka Plus but have turned more to BD Polar Star. Ok, it's a bit on the heavy side but damn it can light up my way to the summit ;) Also I like the idea of being able to have the batterypack close to your body.
I used BD gemini low on mountain  and the Zenix up on high..the zenix rocks ;D
Quote
What more... Ohh yeah! Backpacks. I hate the one I have now! It's heavy and only like 60-65 litres. I would like to have a backpack, internal framing with at least 90 litres capacity. The one I've looked at is Arc'Teryx Bora 95 which is extremely nice, but expensive and maybe a bit on the heavy side. Which is the best one for mountaineering. I'm carrying everything myself so drop the thoughts about Sherpas carrying stuff for me.  :P It would be nice if it had a daypack attached, like the Bora 95. Of course I want possibilites for hydration system and ability to attach ice-axe and trekkingpoles.
I would recommend a somewhat bigger pack if you try and climb it with minimum support like I did. I used a 65 ltr pack and that was just right.Anything smaler i would not recommend except if you go with an organistion and thus sherpa help.(dont get it bigger, you dont want that above 7000m ;-)
I used the North face Profhet 65, but i also have an arc teryx nozone..and that one rocks also
I also used a whippet pole from BD...nice peace of kit
Quote


Hope you can help!
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Buddha

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #17 on: Oct 27 2004, 05:11 »

So, you are saying that even if I bring everything I need in my backpack for all mountains of the seven except Everest and Vinson, then I am ok with 65 litres?

I mean, in some cases I would be gone for maybe 3 weeks and need supplies for those 3 weeks (read food) and gas and everything else. A tent takes up a lot of space as do the sleepingbag. I need a set of underwear and baselayer extras as well as a down jacket for cozing around. 2 sleeping pads, 1 Therma-Rest Z-lite and one Therma-Rest ProLite 4, both of them large cause I am 197 cm tall... plus all the other stuff needed!

How do I pack everything in a bag of 65 litres... ?
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Celia Chong

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #18 on: Oct 27 2004, 06:59 »


    Before I attempt everest , I would go for a trip to Mount Kilimanjaro first to celebrate my birthday . Can you e-mail me on preperations before the hike ? I have MSN TOO
 ( footloose_78@hotmail.com )




Regards ,
Celia Chong
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Ron

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Re: Mount Everest - everything we need to know!?
« Reply #19 on: Oct 27 2004, 12:51 »

You ll need a much bigger pack on Denali for sure.. there 80-90 ltr is the norm
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