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Author Topic: La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in Elbrus  (Read 12130 times)

Avid

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La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in Elbrus
« on: Dec 12 2004, 11:46 »

I've been using my Nepal Exreme boots for few years and truly love them but now when we are planing to go to Elbrus I've been starting to question if the these boots are warm enough for the job. So what do you say should I go plastic (which I really wouldn't want to do) or am I OK with my Nepal Extreme boots?
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Re: La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in Elbrus
« Reply #1 on: Dec 12 2004, 23:34 »

Hi Avid,

welcome to the forum.

Although the La Sportiva Nepal Extremes are quite warm for leather boots, I would still recommend against them as Elbrus normally has a very long summit day, mostly quite sunny but cold. This means your shoes could get wet and freeze.

In most cases these shoes should be warm enough for the summitday, but plastics are better for all circumstances and therefore advised.
In any case make sure your shoes are completely dry and warm when you put them on in the morning..

You might want to check out this topic as well:
http://7summits.com/forum/index.php?topic=295.0
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"He who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary." -- Friedrich Nietzsche

Avid

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Re: La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in Elbrus
« Reply #2 on: Dec 13 2004, 04:09 »

Although the La Sportiva Nepal Extremes are quite warm for leather boots, I would still recommend against them as Elbrus normally has a very long summit day, mostly quite sunny but cold. This means your shoes could get wet and freeze.

In most cases these shoes should be warm enough for the summitday, but plastics are better for all circumstances and therefore advised.
In any case make sure your shoes are completely dry and warm when you put them on in the morning..

Thank you for your reply. I was prepared to hear something along those lines. I guess I just have to consider my options but I think I'm going with either Olympus Mons or Millet Everest. Anyway, I have no experience with either of them so if anyone can give me the pros, cons and any advise I would be truly grateful. I just hope I'm not wasting my money on them for nothing... 500-600 for boots is a lot but my toes are even more precious. I know I could go for Scarpa Vega or similar but I wouldn't find much use for them since I would choose my Nepal Extremes for most of the climbs below 6000m.  Anyway, I kind of hope that Mons and Everest boots feel more like leather then regular plastic boots.
« Last Edit: Dec 13 2004, 04:35 by Avid »
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Buddha

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Re: La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in Elbrus
« Reply #3 on: Dec 13 2004, 04:46 »

Hey Avid,

I remember asking about the Olympus Mons and Millet One Sport Everest in another thread and Harry and Ron (retired Moderator) adviced against getting either of those because they are heavy and very clumpsy. I went ahead and bought a pair of Olympus Mons anyway but returned them when I had tried them on a little bit at home. They are really clumpsy and heavy but I think truly nice for say Everest...

Of course, this is from a guy who has no experience so you would be adviced to listen to what Harry has to say as well and take this advice with a bit of salt...
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Avid

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Re: La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in Elbrus
« Reply #4 on: Dec 13 2004, 06:17 »

I went ahead and bought a pair of Olympus Mons anyway but returned them when I had tried them on a little bit at home. They are really clumpsy and heavy but I think truly nice for say Everest...

That is very unfortunate :-[ I really don't want to get a pair of some Koflachs for limited amount of climbs that I would do with them. I normally climb around the French Alps so Neplas are great for me. I was really hopping to get away with just buying a single set of boots for 6000+ region.
« Last Edit: Dec 13 2004, 06:19 by Avid »
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Buddha

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Re: La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in Elbrus
« Reply #5 on: Dec 13 2004, 09:43 »

Actualyl Ed Viesturs has the Koflach Arctis Expe on his Everest trips so they are not a bad boot. However he uses an overboot from Outdoor Research when he's on Everest...
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Avid

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Re: La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in Elbrus
« Reply #6 on: Dec 16 2004, 07:00 »

Hi Buddha!

By saying Koflachs I meant plastic boots in general. At least it used to be a term bit like xeroxing is for taking photocopies. Anyway, what I don't like about plastic is the lack of touch and feel.

...and yes, Viesturs is using Arctis Expe or at least they look like it. However, I've tried the Degree(?) and didn't like it so I don't think Arctis would feel any better. Well, I'll just have to see, maybe I eventually find plastics that will beat the hell out of my Nepals...
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MikeW

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Re: La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in Elbrus
« Reply #7 on: Dec 16 2004, 21:16 »

Hi Avid!

I've used the Salomon Pro Thermic for 2 years now and they are a great pair of boots. The Nuptse from La Sportiva is the equivalent of the Pro Thermic. It's a leather/synthetic double boots, feels like leather and as warm as plastic (at least in my opinion).

I've used the Pro Thermic on Elbrus with whiteout conditions on summit day with somewhat cold temperatures (I guess -15 to 25c with the wind factor) and my feet were really warm, not even a tingle. I've heard someone who went to Denali with the Pro Thermic without any problems either.

I'm leaving in 3 weeks for Aconcagua with my Pro Thermic and I've tested them in -35c without moving for 2 hours last winter and no cold feet (I was watching my kids playing on ice slides).

The beauty of the Pro Thermic and the Nuptse is the removable insulated inner boot that you can dry in your sleeping bag at night so your boot is always dry in the morning.

MikeW
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