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Author Topic: UPCOMMING EVEREST SPEED ASCENT, BRUNOD FSA ITALY, NORTH FACE, TIMED  (Read 4870 times)

sevenhighestpeaks

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According to the USA Mountain Speed Climbing organization www.mountainspeedclimbing.org Bruno Brunod will soon be attempting a speed climb on Everest's North side (Tibetan side).
 
"Everest Official Record Attempt - Second in History

FSA administration (Italy) reports Bruno Brunod 39yrs old [42yrs old correction] to attempt Everest's North side (Tibetan side, pictured left).  *First speed attempt on route, *second official record attempt in history on Everest, *second speed record attempt without use of supplemental oxygen, *no official record times for Everest despite world-wide reports from George Martin at everestnews.com, Tom and Tina Sjorgen at mounteverest.net, as seen in the news and controversy sections.

Information on Brunod:

FSA Record List / USA Record list / FSA profile / Italian article / Athlete List"

About Brunod http://www.fsa-sky.org/site/flash/ath/ath1.php

Suprising to most, there are NO official speed records on Everest.
See this forum for revelations about striking problems with both of the last two claimed records on Everest by two Sherpa, Pemba Dorji and Lhakpa Gelu.

Suprising to most, these Sherpa and several before them, USED SUPPLEMENTAL OXYGEN TO DO THEIR SPEED CLIMBS.  I mean they were Oxygen aided.  The US press and others led the public to believe they simply climbed the peak, nothing more.  Bruno Brunod will NOT be using extra oxygen. 

While it is debated, most are believing that an oxygen assisted climb of Everest is not legitimate - not a TRUE climb, but rather a short-cut, aided, assisted, etc etc. 

Fabio Meraldi, a teamate of Brunod and a FSA athlete also (www.fsa-sky.org) Italy organization called 'Skyrunning'...he attempted Everest on the South face in 2003 but had to abort very high up due to the cold.  HE WAS NOT USING EXTRA OXYGEN.

Is it surprising that Sherpa would use extra oxygen in their climbs, given their reputation and supposed altitude abilities?

Brunod will have his climb of course fully timed by professional, hired timers at great expense and very very difficult planning.  Actually it is not certain that the timing will succeed - it is a great challenge in itself, not only on Everest but peaks like Aconcagua, Rainier, etc as well. 

Type in www.mountainspeedclimbing.org for updates.
« Last Edit: Apr 25 2005, 08:40 by sevenhighestpeaks »
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MikeW

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Babu chiri Sherpa did his speed climb from the south side WITHOUT oxygen. Quite an impressive feat!

MikeW
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sevenhighestpeaks

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I think you're wrong about Babu Chiri's record.  It appears to have been O2 aided seen in this website report.  Scroll down four paragraphs.
Basically as I said and HAS BEEN VIRTUALLY UNKNOWN AMONG THE PUBLIC, all, ALL, the Sherpa used O2 to reach the summit for ALL their speed climbs.  Very surprising.
It's too bad that the press doesn't make this clear. 

Looking at the below excerpted list, ALL RECORDS 'WITH O2' SHOULD BE GIVEN A SEPARATE RECORD LIST, AND THE ONE SOLE 'NO O2' RECORD BY MARC BATARD FROM 1990 IN 22 HOURS 29 MINUTES SHOULD BE THE ONLY ONE ON THE NO O2 LIST.  THEN THIS LIST WILL STAND OUT ALONE, AND THE OTHER 'WITH O2' CLIMBERS CAN REMAIN ALONE WITH THEIR LESSER SPEED CLIMBS.  SHERPA USING 02??

The Sharpa since European Marc Batard, all took short cuts.  Pathetic.

http://www.mounteverest.net/page/explist.htm
"May 21, 2000, Babu Chiri Sherpa (with O2): 16 hrs 56 min"

Everest speed ascent history
Oct 5, 1990, Marc Batard (no O2): 22 hrs 29 min
Oct 17, 1998, Kaji Sherpa (with O2): 20 hrs 24 min
May 21, 2000, Babu Chiri Sherpa (with O2): 16 hrs 56 min
May 22, 2003, Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (with O2): 12 hrs and 45 min
May 25, 2003, Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa (with O2): 10 hrs 56 min
May 21, 2004, Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (with O2): 8 hrs 10 min

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MikeW

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What a source!!!! :o

Explorers Web took the information provided by Brunod. So you confirmed your info with yourself. It's a good thing you're not a lawyer.

I talked to Babu before he died, and different web sites at that time confirmed that he wasn't using O2. And btw, tell Brunod to sleep at the summit like Babu did, still without O2!

And stop discrediting sherpas, maybe some did use O2 but not all! >:(

MikeW
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sevenhighestpeaks

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Actually the information about the history of Everest speed ascents was NOT provided by Brunod.  Please contact Explorersweb at team@explorersweb.com.

Please provide your source(s) to support that Babu's record was done without supplemental oxygen.  Please provide website links etc.

At this time it appears clear that he did in fact use supplemental oxygen, and that Marc Batard is the ONLY Everest speed climber to not use oxygen, and all FIVE sherpa after him did in fact use oxygen.
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