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Author Topic: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary  (Read 7691 times)

Romke

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Noels eyes have not gotten better and we have decided that he will go to the hospital in Zhangmu, near the Nepali border, at 2200m altitude. We have chartered a private landcruiser, that will take Noel and the Doctor Andrey as well as one of the Russian climbers, Volodia to the hospital. Noel will be checked by a good doctor, and we will decide tomorrow if he can go back up again, or if we have to think of alternate plans...


Noel calling his doctor at home for a second opinion

Lynne has decided to join them, I will stay here in Basecamp to prepare our next trip up to the sides of mighty Everest.

Meanwhile Noel and the rest of the FBC have been playing cards all day, so any movement out of the messtent will be good :-)

I had some time left unused today, so here is another brainwave, use it to your benefit...


New 7summits.com Everest dictionary:

As an aid to understanding our terminology-filled professional updates, we have decided to explain some of the most commonly used terms about climbing Everest.

ABC: a place Above BaseCamp, any place will do, so one meter should be enough to say you have reached ABC.

Acclimatisation: getting used to headaches, lack of appetite and bad smells.

Balcony (the): nice viewpoint where many bottles are being emptied.

Basecamp: place to sleep near mountain but still far from any real climbing. Resort with abundant luxury.

Not to be mistaken with:

Base-Camp: wearing old fashioned clothes and acting like Reinhold messner, with suitable beard.

Basecamp depression: once back down in basecamp realizing it is not
the real world, nor the summit. Mental killer, creating card-playing
zombies with no interest in climbing whatsoever.

BC: see Basecamp

Crevasse: fancy french name for huge crack in ice, usually covered with snow for entertainment purposes. Mostly succesfully crossed by use of ladders or ignorance.

Crampon: tool to slice expensive clothing, mostly worn on feet. Name comes from the cramp you get in your shoulders when you put them on.

Down suit: Wearable sleeping bag, filled with goosehair. Unlike the name suggests mostly used when going up.

FBC: Fat Bastards Club. Collection of western climbers eating more than they climb.

HAFE: High Altitude Flatulation Exhaustion. Getting sick of fellow climbers smelling and sounding terribly bad.

HAFood: Short for High Altitude food. Weirdly enough you will eat this stuff -which you would not touch with a 6ft pole at sea level- at the moment that your appetite is at an all time low and you do not digest anything anyway. Also used to fix stone walls around tents.

Jumar: gravity fighting device that ruins ropes (see 'Ropes') and supplies interesting movements when frozen. Has taken over from ice-axe (see 'Ice-axe') as leading metal item used for climbing. Female Bollywood climbers doing the shoulder-shake use them in full effect when used in pairs.

Ice-axe: Old fashioned tool used to hit ice and snow for interesting sounds ('Thud', 'tsjak'). One sharp end for killing Yeti's (see 'Yeti'), one scoop end for ruining down suits (see 'Down Suits'). Now replaced with Jumar (see 'Jumar'). Mostly used for summit pictures only, on Everest.

Mushroom rock: very wrong music, some people are allergic to it.

Oxygen: substance that makes iron burn. Sold in bottles for home experiments.

RBGAN: Right Before Going, Another Newsletter.

Rope(s): long thin items to tie climbers to mountains. Mutual attraction with crampons (see 'crampon').

Satphone: short for Satellite phone, also known as EWUC, Electrical Wireless Umbilical Cord, for 24/7 contact with homefront.

Sherpa: climbing instructor and professional without matching ego and salary. Useful for helping realize dreams without having to give credit.

Steps:
- First step: getting out of bed in the morning, with headache and full bladder
- Second step: empty your pee bottle and take aspirin
- Third step: get back into bed, wait for better times
- Hillary step: sudden funky move, as when stung by bees in behind

Yeti: Career killer for Tirolean mountaineers. Lives in cave just past middle camp on Tibet side.


who of the three is not Nepalese?

Hope this will help you understand more about the intelligently written reports of our endeavours on the mountain :8

Cheers,
Harry
www.7summits.com


« Last Edit: Apr 28 2005, 06:15 by Romke »
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Shirley & Claude

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #1 on: Apr 27 2005, 23:03 »

Hello Lynne & Noel,

Was great speaking to you earlier today Lynne........glad to hear Noel is going for professional advice at hospital, and that his vision is slightly improved on what it was.

Keep us all posted,

à bientôt,

S & C   

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john c

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #2 on: Apr 27 2005, 23:10 »

Geez guys awful new about Noels eyes - hope the hospital trip sorts him out.
No truth in the rumour that Lynne popped something in his drink when he spent too much time admiring the female indian climbers??!!!! >:D
Heres hoping he and Lynne can soon return
Best wishes to all

john
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annhall

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #3 on: Apr 28 2005, 01:31 »

Lynne and Noel good luck for the trip to the hospital tomorrow. Have a safe journey and hope to hear good news from you soon. All our love ann and the girls.
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maria and mark

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #4 on: Apr 28 2005, 01:59 »

Hi Lynne and Noel,

Glad to hear you are going to hospital noel to get eyes checked. Fingers and toes crossed for you that they improve and that you can resume the climb. Try to be patient!!!! you know what they say Lynne, behind every good man.........

Keep safe,

Love, maria and mark X
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Mary Clare

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #5 on: Apr 28 2005, 02:25 »

Great use of your time at BC Harry, I love the new Everest dictionary!  I am sure I will be referring to it.

Please let Alex know that his reports are being read also.  It is nice to have the "variety" of information from you, Alex and Lorenzo.  Thank you!

A special "good luck" to my brother, John.

Sincerely,
mc
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Romke

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Reaction from Harry for Fred
« Reply #6 on: Apr 28 2005, 05:37 »

Reaction from Harry for Fred:

Thanks Fred, until now I have not needed the positivity speech, so
all is well. I am thoroughly enjoying being at one of the most special
places on earth!
Please say hi to Nanko, Suus and all other interested colleagues :-)
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Romke

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Reaction from Harry and John
« Reply #7 on: Apr 28 2005, 05:39 »

"Hi Marie Claire,
 
Thanks for your comments and compliments. It is nice to read that
someone actually reads my ramblings :-)
I have read your message to John, here is his reaction:

"Hi MC,
I received your messages, also from Lorenzo. Thanks. All is fine.  So
far, too easy.

 To all; we have completed climbing (part) 1 of 3.  I will leave for part 2 in a few days.  This will take me to 25,000 feet, then back down to base camp at 17,000 feet.  more later
See ya, JOHN
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MournesMan

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #8 on: Apr 28 2005, 06:55 »

Harry

You have cleverly tried to disguise (with hat) the middle guy in the picture as a Dutchman - I'm afraid the earlier pictures posted by Romke have given you away - you are obviously the one on the right!!!!!!!!!! :lol)

No only joking! The chiselled good looks of a Dutchman (Harry) belongs to the one on the left - unless Harry, you claim Nepali citizenship as well!!

Anyway, thought your dictionary was a hoot - very funny!!  Liked the "Base-Camp" and "Yeti" ones.  I've heard of HAPE and HACE - by the way, hope nobody gets those - but HAFE sounds just as nasty (at least for the others who don't have it!!)  :D
I saw the "RBGAN" in an earlier post and wondered what it mean't - now I know, so your dictionary has proved useful as well!!!

Best wishes to the Norn Ireland folks.  Noel, I really hope it goes well at hospital for you mate.  Well done to Lynne for supporting her man and going with him.  Take care folks and I wish you both the best of health and here's hoping you will return to Harry's gang!!

Hope you are well Lorenzo and the excessive oxygen at BC has eased your heavy breathing.  I'm sure it will be a bit easier for you in phase 2 of acclimatisation.  Best wishes and take care up there.  I always check your site at around 6pm here at the end of my working day in Queen's University Belfast - to see if another excellent audio blog has been posted.  Your technology is holding up well - excellent quality of sound.  My Italian colleague has also listened to your posts - both the English and Italian language versions.  I must learn some Italian soon.

Best wishes to all and as always, take care of each other,

Best regards,
Colin Fox
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Buddha

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #9 on: Apr 28 2005, 09:42 »

I saw the "RBGAN" in an earlier post and wondered what it mean't - now I know, so your dictionary has proved useful as well!!!

Hi Colin,

As with most of the dictionary Harry was joking about RBGAN. What it actually means is Regional Broadcast Global Area Network. It's kind of a superfast satellitephone for data-transfers.

Below is a picture of one... Just so that you don't think Harry was serious about what RBGAN meant!

Cheers,

Buddha


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annhall

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #10 on: Apr 29 2005, 00:55 »

Lynne and Noel good news from your email.i'm glad things are working out for Noel and he's even letting you type Lynne. Noel's photo in the tent looks as if he is phoning the other members of U2. just think he could be leading a double life!
Thanks also to Harry for the crash course in mountaineering terminology.at least i feel i can keep up with the lingo.
Will keep listening to Lorenzo as his reports are so visual it brings the atmosphere a little closer for us armchair people.
All the best for the next part of your journey. Love and best wishes Ann
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MournesMan

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #11 on: Apr 29 2005, 05:41 »

Buddha

Thanks for the technology lesson.  I thought the RBGAN was just a made up acronym by Harry.  I had no idea that it was real and represented a piece of equipment which makes use of the communications satellites.  Well just goes to prove that you learn something new every day!!!  ::)

I'm sure Harry's having a good laugh now - he fooled me on that one!!!

Best wishes,
Colin
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Buddha

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #12 on: Apr 29 2005, 07:54 »

Well, what a RBGAN is isn't something that everyone in the climbing community knows either. I read about them a few months back at Human Edge Technology's website. www.humanedgetech.com

Great website and worth a visit if you are eager to learn more about communication when you are "far away".
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Chris Valentine

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #13 on: Apr 29 2005, 15:04 »

A BGAN (or RBGAN which is regional) is a high-speed data terminal that uses one of the sat comms systems. They are available for at least both Iridium and Thuraya and can transmit data (only) a lot faster than a sat phone. Lorenzo and Scot Wollums had one with their team when Lorenzo did Lhotse in 2003, and it stayed in base camp together with laptops and a couple of team members. All the news teams use them, eg: in Iraq. You can rent them too.

Chris.
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Nancy

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Re: 27- april: Eye decisions and the new Everest dictionary
« Reply #14 on: Apr 30 2005, 07:14 »

Some misc thoughts:

John -- Miss you ... Be safe or I'll kill you!

Mary Clare -- Your song sounds like it's coming along nicely.  Is it possible to post a sample of it on this website?

Harry -- Love your irreverant sense of humor!  HAFE is my personal favorite.

Noel -- Hope your eyes are improving enough to continue the expedition.  Thanks for letting John use your satellite phone.

Lorenzo -- Still waiting to see a picture of your Mick Jagger impersonation.  Thanks for the informative blogs.


Looking forward to more posts and blogs in the hopefully near future.

Cheers!
Nancy





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