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Author Topic: 2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!  (Read 4718 times)

Romke

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2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!
« on: May 2 2005, 21:48 »

As Lorenzo's phoneblog system is powerless, you will have to do with my typings!

First of all thanks very much for all your reactions on my posts! Romke sent all your reactions to me, very nice to read all, I have shown them to Lorenzo and Noel/Lynne as well, they all thank you for your efforts and support.

Let me enlighten you how our communication systems actually 'work':

There are 3 systems working currently:

(1) Lorenzo has a direct number he dials from his satphone, like an answering machine, but it records his message directly in a form that can be placed on his website. This is all being done with the help of his friend Chris Valentine, who also posts on the 7summits.com site. Thanks Chris!

(2) Noel & Lynne use the Contact 3.0 software and hardware package from Explorersweb, with this system they can use their PDA to send brief updates as well as pictures to their website.

(3) 7summits.com forum updates: I am typing on Romke's PDA using a small foldable keyboard. I save the reports on a small SD card, which I use to copy the report to Noels PDA as his is the only one I can use to connect to a special email address I have for this trip. My normal email is unusable as it is so full of spam, it will eat up my satphone credits within a day. This special address is only known to Romke (and maybe some others ;-)

But for some strange reason I can only send email/reports to my other 7summits.com address, not to 'external' email addresses. So I have to SMS/text Romke, who then checks my other email address, copies the report and posts it on the 7summits forum  :-P

Therefore I would like to thank Romke for once again spending so much of his valuable time for being my basecamp and support in getting all of this to the outside world. Please alljoin me in giving kudos to him: Thanks Romke!

Sorry if you are not interested in all of this, here is some more practical info :-)

Yesterday May 1st, Noel, Lynne, Lorenzo and yours truly left Basecamp (5200m) after breakfast. Right from the start we were accompanied by a black dog with eyes so lightblue they appear white. This dog had already surprised me a week ago when I was taking some night pictures of the full moon and she suddenly appeared next to me, which scared the hell out of me as it was pitch dark :)

Somehow she returned and stayed with us all day on our way to Middle/Intermediate camp, chasing mountain goats and Tibethan Snow Cocks on the way. I was leading the party and most of the time she was no more than a few feet away from me. The trip to Middle camp (5800m) took 4 hours this time, so more than 2 hours faster than the first time. As the dog did not leave our side and spent the night in an empty tent!

This morning, 2nd May, we left again after breakfast for the hard trip to ABC at 6400m. The dog did not leave our side all day again and actually is currently sleeping in Lorenzo's tent vestibule!

The climb was very hard. Even though we did it in 5 hours, so again much faster than the first time, we were absolutely knackered when arriving at ABC and at the moment I am the last one standing as the rest is off to sleep..

This night John (2nd night) and James as well as the Slovenians Victor & Marco will spend the night at North Col, 7060m. Tomorrow they will very likely come down, then Nate will go up with his personal Sherpa to spend the night there.

Noel, Lynne, Lorenzo and I will take one rest day tomorrow and go for North Col the 4th of May, maybe even higher, before we go back to basecamp again for our final resting stage before summit period. If all goes well we are aiming between 20th and 25th May, but due to the dependency on health and weather and the many many climbers we can of course never be sure...

So what is North Col?
>From ABC it is about an hour of hiking across the moraines before you reach a fairly flat glacier leading up to the bottom of the fixed ropes. These fixed ropes, that start at approximately 6600m go all the way to the North Col, at 7060m this is the saddle between 7500m high Changtse (Bei Peak) mountain and Everest's Northface/ridge.

We made a camp there, sheltered from the wind by a huge ice shelf.

The route to the North Col is fairly steep, with some near vertical sections where the ropes are very welcome! There are even two small ladders to cross small crevasses, but this is nothing like the infamous Khumbu Icefall on the Nepali side.

Will try to send pictures soon!

Meanwhile the temperature has dropped enormously, so I am heading for some sleep! The night is clear and millions of stars are shining down on us. Headaches, freezing temperatures (am typing at -6 degrees celsius in the tent now and dropping fast) and other hardships aside, what an incredible privilige it is to spend part of my life in such beautiful surroundings.

Signing off as my fingers are getting stiff :-)

Cheers,
Harry
Www.7summits.com
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Kevin Quick

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Re: 2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!
« Reply #1 on: May 2 2005, 22:42 »

Just an update on Lorenzo's Everest site everest.open.ac.uk, to say that it is infact now back up and running.

Lorenzo has not yet sent any new audio recordings since the site came back online, but the GPS coordinates he sent over the last couple of days are on the site and you can see these pinpointed on a map of the area.

Also, just to explain that Chris Valentine who has been posting updates of Lorenzo's progress, is about to go away for a little under 2 weeks and so during this period, I will try to post the messages in his place

Kevin
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Lorenzo's Everest Audio Blog
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http://everest.open.ac.uk

annhall

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Re: 2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!
« Reply #2 on: May 3 2005, 02:42 »

dear harry thanks for the update on progress for you lynne and noel and others. the dog sounds interesting..just watch lynne doesn't try to smuggle it back home ..the weakness for animals runs in our family...only for me it's cats. tell Lynne and Noel we are all asking for them and  hope noel's eyes continue to improve.  Good luck for the next few days and i hope the temperatures don't become too bad. look forward to any new pics of the magnicent scenery. all the best ann hall
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wynn/bill

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Re: 2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!
« Reply #3 on: May 3 2005, 03:09 »

 :)Hi   All , Thanks Harry fro the updates.. Please tell Lynne and Noel We are thinking of them and I hope Noel has that dog well trained by now
                All the Best
               Wynnand Bill
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MC

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Re: 2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!
« Reply #4 on: May 3 2005, 03:40 »

Hello Harry and all

Great update!  Thank you.
Have you named the dog yet?  I had a dog follow me while climbing San Gregonio in Southern California, USA.  The dog followed me to the top of the peak and back down.  I doubt this dog will be following you to the top of Everest!  (Unless she is Wonder Dog!)

Well, stay as warm as possible...again, please give my best to John.

Cheers!
mc

p.s.  I read your piece on "waking up in a fairy tale".  Beautifully written.  I hope you do get it published.  It seems to me that even though the goal is to summit Mt. Everest,  lucky is man who seeks adventure along the way!  What a mysterious, magicical and surreal experience for the three of you!  A day you will not soon forget.
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mc

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Re: 2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!
« Reply #5 on: May 3 2005, 04:02 »

I forgot to say "kudos" to Romke.  And while I'm on the subject of giving "kudos"...thank you to everyone who is helping to bring your experience to all of us, who are wishing for your great success.

Sincerely,
mc
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Nikky

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Re: 2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!
« Reply #6 on: May 3 2005, 04:42 »

Ruth and Nikky have been following and listening to Lorenzo's reports whilst in U.K., Turkey, and now USA. Almost feels is if they are both with you, and loved  the poetic discriptions.
They arrived in Turkey en route to (cuse spelling,Cappadochia as seen on your Micro-lite freinds laptop at Tibet Ehxibiton in Luguria) , but  only had 24 hours in Asia, then Ruth had to fly to Florida as her grandson arrived 7 weeks early, (he obviously couldn't wait to hear  more reports on the Everest ascent)  Mother, baby, and Grandmother all fine. Nikky didn't cross the Atlantic, and was thought to be still in Turkey, but suspect  kept going East, and died her hair black, and it was her lurking in Lorenzo's vestibule , trying to get into his tent (well, we all know what she's like in the mountains).Just as well there are no mountain pools!!Standing by for more reports, love from both of us! p.s. Try shouting "Green Pie" at the dog and she what she does!
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bassie

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Re: 2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!
« Reply #7 on: May 3 2005, 20:42 »

Ha Harry,

goed om te lezen dat het goed gaat!!  Er klinkt zoveel plezier en teamspirit uit je verhalen dat het aldoor een plezier is om ze te lezen.

Hier is wat raars gebeurd!! Heb huis gekocht in Broek in Waterland en we gaan waarschijnlijk 1 augustus al over, dus een beetje doorlopen want dan kun je nog helpen met klussen!!!!

Heel veel succes, we denken aan je!!!

groevaba
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MournesMan

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Re: 2nd-May: Communication, dog & Back in ABC!
« Reply #8 on: May 4 2005, 05:59 »

Great post Harry

Was very interested to hear how your communication systems are working (being a bit of a techy freak myself!) - especially involving the PDA approaches.

By the way, can someone give me the address for Noel and Lynne's website - would like to tap into their messages and any pictures of the beautiful scenery they may have posted.

Sounds like you are making great progress (moving up faster than during phase 1) and the acclimatization is working well.

I just wonder how high up the mountain that dog will go???  It reminds me of a climb on Slieve Donard in N Ireland a year or so ago.  With 2 other friends, we noticed a sheep heading straight for us at high speed.  We struggled to get out of the way and then a dog sped past us, still chasing the sheep and scaring it witless.  We eventually caught the dog and tried to take it off the mountain and close the gate to keep it out - but it managed to squeeze under the gate and follow us - looking for more sheep to chase.  We found a length of rope and tied it around the dog's neck and promptly took it for a trek with us - right to the top of Slieve Donard, lol.  We stopped just below the top and had lunch and the dog sat down with us and had some too!!!  Then we continued down to Donard Car Park whereupon we released our friendly canine - presumably he went home to his owner, although he was keen to come with me, jumping into the boot of my car  :lol)

I don't think your dog will manage the vertical roped sections.  Maybe he/she is an angel to guard and protect the team - the dog should be your mascot.  ;D

Just ensure you leave her/him in a safe area.

Best wishes and keep warm (if that's possible up there!!!)
Colin
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