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Author Topic: 18th May: THE HEAT IS ON!  (Read 3555 times)

Romke

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18th May: THE HEAT IS ON!
« on: May 19 2005, 02:00 »

"Ughe ughe ughe"

... silence ...

"Aaahugh ugh ugh"

... more silence ...

... then a very thin voice, hardly more then a whisper  ...

"Hey Romke"

After a lot more coughing I recognized Harry's voice, shaped by 7 weeks of cold, dry air and a sore throat that has gotten worse over the past two days. I did my best to get a consistent story out of him.

"We're going up tomorrow. There is a small weather window forecasted that will hopefully allow us enough time to make it to the summit.

Only Lorenzo and I are going. The others have decided to wait for the next window that is expected next week. Alex stays in ABC with the group that he is guiding. The Sherpa's are now high up to fix ropes. They will need to recover when they're finished, so they can't join us either. It will be just Lorenzo and me.

This will be an all-or-nothing attempt. Most climbers in ABC decided to wait longer. If we don't reach the summit, we will have to go down to BC to recover and probably loose the chance that the others are waiting for. For me waiting here in ABC is not an option.  My throat is getting worse and I can feel my body losing strength each day in ABC."

He must have heard the worried tone in my voice, because he immediately added:

"But don't worry. If the wind turns out to be too strong tomorrow, we will face reality and be back in ABC on Friday. However, if the the weather is good, we will try to make it to camp I tomorrow, camp III on Friday and summit on Saturday or Sunday."

Harry thanked us all for the support, the messages and all the encouragement that he received. It sure helps him through the tough parts!
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Romke

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Re: 18th May: THE HEAT IS ON!
« Reply #1 on: May 19 2005, 02:22 »

To give you an impression what Harry's voice sounded like today, I recorded a voice mail that he left me earlier. He didn't expect me to put it on the web, so don't expect a clear and well spoken voice log as Lorenzo gives them. Also it's much less in english...

For those hearing Harry's voice for the first time ... he doesn't normally sound like a wood rasp, really....

http://www.7summits.com/media/everest/18may.mp3
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Mary Clare

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Re: 18th May: THE HEAT IS ON!
« Reply #2 on: May 19 2005, 03:46 »

 WOW...the 1st attempt...I am sure Harry and Lorenzo must feel that they have a chance.  It is hard not to worry just a bit.  I feet very excited for them though!

Harry had made a blog on April 29th, so we were able to hear his voice.  What a difference!!!  I certainly hope his throat will stabalize and not get worse.  Keeping my fingers crossed and wishing Harry and Lorenzo a SAFE and SUCCESSFUL ascent!

Thank you for this update, Romke.

mc
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MournesMan

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Re: 18th May: THE HEAT IS ON!
« Reply #3 on: May 19 2005, 06:08 »

Great post Romke

Now I know the timetable - at least for Lorenzo and Harry, provided the weather is favourable.  Very exciting now - will they get a chance to post/communicate to us all at the higher camps? Or does the equipment not work so good?  They are certainly taking a big risk with it just being the 2 of them.  It is good though that the Sherpas are higher up fixing the remaining ropes just below the summit.

Anyway, a day or 2 from now will tell a story as to whether it is really on or not.  I just hope they don't miss the second weather window if indeed this attempt proves too difficult and they have to abandon it.  Maybe it would have been better to go down to BC around 16th and wait/recover strength for this second window.

Difficult to weigh up given the unpredictable nature of the weather and the mountain herself.

The absolute best of luck to both of them from Colin
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Chris Valentine

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Re: 18th May: THE HEAT IS ON!
« Reply #4 on: May 19 2005, 14:30 »

Lorenzo has his Thuraya phone with him. Even if he is unable to speak, he will send GPS fixes, so we'll be able to see where they've got to from the map. I suspect he won't attempt to record a voice message from anywhere other than the camps, though - the wind would probably be too great. I would also guess that Harry has a camera, even if Lorenzo doesn't.

Given Harry's condition I'm not surprised that he would need return to BC immediately, but I reckon that if they are turned back, Lorenzo might stick at ABC for another attempt early next week. He seems to be very much on form at the moment and is a very determined guy.

Chris.
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