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Author Topic: 20th May: summit attempt cancelled  (Read 4328 times)

Chris Valentine

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20th May: summit attempt cancelled
« on: May 20 2005, 13:42 »

Text message from Lorenzo this morning just to say they're going back down because a) Harry's not well enough and b) the weather has closed in again. I'm fairly sure Lorenzo will stay at ABC to wait for another window with the rest of the team.

Chris.
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Chris Valentine

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Re: 20th May: summit attempt cancelled
« Reply #1 on: May 20 2005, 14:59 »

Lorenzo has now phoned in with more details. Harry apparently started showing signs of altitude sickness and the weather was not going to stay favourable for long enough to complete both ascent and descent, so it does sound like they made the right decision to turn around. May now have to return to BC, which I'm sure will annoy him - says he not looking forward to having to climb the North Col a fourth time!

Ropes had not been fixed on the second step (a 30m vertical slab), but the Slovenian team are continuing their climb.

No wind but lots of snow on the return to ABC.

Chris.
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Mary Clare

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Re: 20th May: summit attempt cancelled
« Reply #2 on: May 21 2005, 00:46 »

Good day to all

Thought for the day...to Harry & Lorenzo.

The lyrics from my song "Live your Dreams"...2nd verse:
In life there is risk...so take a chance.  And if you should fail, try again.  Keep things in perspective...success is around the bend.  And you can climb any mountain with passion.  You can truly shine.

As I said in a previous post...Everest really is an intelligence game, as well as physical.  Noel and Lynn were faced with an important decision, just as Harry and Lorenzo were today.  It seems like a very good call.

The best of luck to Victor, Marco, Vladimir and his porter!!!

Regards,
mc
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Romke

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Re: 20th May: summit attempt cancelled
« Reply #3 on: May 21 2005, 01:38 »

Two messages from Harry, quite dramatic:

"Back in ABC after a bad night on NC. Too much wind after 21st, waste of O2. I'm ill, will need antibiotics and rest before second attempt. 2 Slovenians are at 8300, may summit tonight!"

"Am under russian drugs. Tomorrow another half marathon to BC. Coughed my Uganda rib to pieces, also caught virus so antibiotics won't help. Need to sleep now."

Harry and I went to Uganda in February to climb the Rwenzori mountains. A beautiful hike in an amazing country with the most fun climbing partners, guides and porters. Harry came somersaulting down a steep piece of rock on day six. He then hurt the rib that he refers to in his second message.



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Mary Clare

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Re: 20th May: summit attempt cancelled
« Reply #4 on: May 21 2005, 01:47 »

According to Alex: Victor, Marco, Vladimir and his porter have made it to the 8300 meter camp!!!  Great news.  Let's hope weather holds out for summit attempt tomorrow.  Today there is no wind at this camp!  Tomorrow, higher winds are expected.  I hope they have success and get back down safely.

mc
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Mary Clare

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Re: 20th May: summit attempt cancelled
« Reply #5 on: May 21 2005, 03:17 »

Romke

I was posting at the same time as you were and I had not read your latest post.  I am sorry to hear that Harry's condition is not getting better...he does not sound well at all.  Definite concerns about his injured "Uganda" rib.  I hope he will recover at BC with the help of Dr. Andrey.  I am wishing him "good health" and quickly.

I hope the team is keeping pre-occupied at ABC.  They have a bit more waiting to do!

mc
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