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7 summits and other mountain stuff => Questions => Topic started by: 617 on Nov 22 2010, 08:30

Title: Everest North East Ridge?
Post by: 617 on Nov 22 2010, 08:30
Been looking into this (although Everest is several years away for me), and I have tentatively come to the conclusion that the North side may be safer:
- no khumbu icefall
- less risk of congestion
- shorter summit day (from 8300m)

So, what am I missing?
Title: Re: Everest North East Ridge?
Post by: MoT on Nov 23 2010, 03:22
More cowboys, less certain political situation, more technical bits, higher high camp so more time spent in the death zone, avalanche risk in below the North Col, more visible bodies on the route  >:D

(to name but a few)

Also, still a risk of congestion while you wait for people who don't seem to be able to climb a ladder, or abseil off the top of it
Title: Re: Everest North East Ridge?
Post by: Bill on Nov 24 2010, 03:24
As someone who has done it, I can tell you that:

Yes no icefall.

The route from high camp at 8300 meters to summit...only a few places more than one person wide. Congestion is all about when you choose to go, meaning wait to avoid crowds. The route is narrow as hell in some places.

Summit day is longer. The route to summit is several kilometers long, much longer than the south route so you are above 800m longer. And you have the "steps".
The south route is steeper.

From those who I know who have done both sides, they report that in the end the route to summit from each high camp really is about the same.

Title: Re: Everest North East Ridge?
Post by: 7summits on Dec 13 2010, 20:40
Until high camp the North/Tibet side is safer. The Nepal side is not harder, but more dangerous due to icefall and long lines up the fixed ropes (on most places on the North, there are no fixed lines or they are not really needed, so you can pass easily).

Summit day is tougher and more dangerous on Tibet side, as you stay longer above 8000m as you are traversing at altitude instead of quickly going up and down as on Nepal side.
Still there are more safe resting places on Tibet side, so easier to pass, bottleneck are 1st & 2nd Step (3rd step is quick and easy).

Check out http://7summits.com/everest/guidebook.php for my guidebook with both routes in detail and a comparison.