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7 summits and other mountain stuff => Questions => Topic started by: TAM on Nov 5 2003, 18:50

Title: In case of AMS ... ...
Post by: TAM on Nov 5 2003, 18:50

Some people said that if one had AMS previously, he would be prone to have AMS again.  Is this true?      ???

Also, during the high altitude expedition, if a member encountered AMS  :'( that he had to descend, what strategy you trips employed?  Split team or other solutions?  If there are sufficient time, can he join in the team again?

Thank you very much!
Title: Re:In case of AMS ... ...
Post by: Ron on Nov 6 2003, 04:46
I dont think people that had AMS before are more prone to get it again. I climbed with people going very well on Mckinley and 1/2 year later being having a bit of trouble on Mt Blanc.
It depends on many different things and conditions every time and even most "specialists docters" do not not agree on what makes you more prone to AMS and what not and who gets it and vice versa.
I think it is true however that if you tried 5 times and 5 times you get AMS on rougfly the same altitude that you might wanna consider another challange.You most probebly are physicly not capable of undergoing extreme altitude.

There is only 1 really good way to handle AMS.....and thats not diamox or another drug..not even a presure bag. It is to go down or in a light case dont go up and rest,drink and recover.
What the right tactic is then is up to the team and the climber. There are cases of people having HAPE going down and summiting Everest 2 weeks later.
I think the solutions are as diverse as the teams climbing and have to be handelt accordingly each time. As long the situation of the sick climber does not become a lethal 1. In that case the only option is to get him down no matter what.

My 10 cents
Title: Re:In case of AMS ... ...
Post by: trunl on Nov 9 2003, 06:06
did some research and asked some experts. 5 out of 8 of them said that it does not matter about previous experiences of AMS and they are NOT more prone to get it. also, if it turns to HACE or HAPE, then use dex (dexamentrose, not sure about spelling), always have that on a mountain anyways when high altitude climbing.