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7 summits and other mountain stuff => Questions => Topic started by: David Arnison on May 2 2004, 19:47

Title: British Ascent Records on Anconcagua
Post by: David Arnison on May 2 2004, 19:47
Hi, I was wondering if there was anyone out there who can provide me with the records for british ascents on Anconcagua. I'm currently planning an expedition to the mountain in early 2005, and hope to set/break new records on the mountain. Is there anyone out there who can provide me with this information?


David Arnison

Title: Re: British Ascent Records on Anconcagua
Post by: 7summits on May 3 2004, 14:52
Hey David,
there will be unlimited british record to be broken like speed ascent, first brit on some south face route first blind brit (?), first brit carrying 4 cats in his backpack while wearing Teva sandals(don't!) first brit climbing the canaleta sideays while singing the Star Spangled Banner and much more so it is impossible to list all.

But I guess you are looking for something to sell your sponsors or the media, but I think you should first decide why you want to climb this dangerous mountain and only after that's decided think about how you are going to climb it. Then you can see if you might do any first.
Aconcagua is no amusement park, it is a deadly mountain. I do not think you want to break the record for the brit who died the fastest on Aconcagua...

There are no complete records of speed ascents and firsts per nationality route, so first determine your goal and then go look for others that might have done it before. Always climb for the right reasons as climbing can kill you if you are focused on records rather than on the climbing itself!
Title: Re: British Ascent Records on Anconcagua
Post by: David Arnison on May 4 2004, 04:59
mmmm, lol. I don't plan to take any risks at all regarding acclimatization or any other possible outcome of my climb. I'm planning for absolutely every possibility.  In terms of route, the only route we are planning to tackle for any record attempts is the normal route, and for this reason, our acclimatization is very much extended, we plan to spend up to 8 weeks on the mountain, so I suppose we're gonna need an extended permit. Is it possible to extend the permit beyond the standard 20 days, or will we need to return to mendoza (a horrible waste of time!)
David  :)
Title: Re: British Ascent Records on Anconcagua
Post by: 7summits on May 4 2004, 13:11
Hi David,
that's good to hear. Many people forget that more people die on Aconcagua than on Denali, even if you look at it relatively...
As you can buy your permit a few days in advance, I think you can just buy 2 permits as each is valid 20 days and have them registered to start the 2nd the days the first expires.
In that case the worst case scenario is having to go down to the park gate which will actually be a good thing as it help you recover for your record ascent.

Some advice: the normal route is not a place where most people can hang out for more than 2 weeks, they simply do not make it mentally as it is a huge scree slope and you can see the summit from BC still it is far away. I climbed both sides and the Vacas routes are much nicer and interesting; you can even sign up for our Aconcagua from all sides trip (http://7summits.com/aconcagua/trips.php) which goes up one side then meets the normal route on summitday and descends the normal route.
You can use this trip only as acclimatisation, rest a few days in the hotel Plaza de Mulas and go for your record.
Another option would be to just acclimatize ona completely different mountain; last year I climbed Ojos de Salados in Chile, which is just slightly lower than Acon; climbed it 2 weeks after summiting Acon in a 4 day strip. We also offer climbs up the Cerro Plata range near Mendoza, which is 6000m as well, but has teh advantage that it is no park, so no park fees/permits. You can do this before an Acon climb so you only need one permit.

Many options, we can help with a lot of them, anyway, think your options through carefully, keep us posted about your plans and progress!