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7 summits and other mountain stuff => News => Topic started by: 7summits on May 30 2004, 14:12

Title: Russian heroes complete hard new route on Everest north face!
Post by: 7summits on May 30 2004, 14:12
Russianclimb (http://www.russianclimb.com/EverestNF/ev_nf_en.html) reports about the most sensational climb on Everest in 20 years:

"30 May, 2004 at 10-00 Pavel Shabaline, Iljas Tukhvatullin and Andrew Mariev summited Everest via the new route - the center of the North Wall!

Congratulations!

The expedition isn't over - two groups are on their way to the top.

29 May, 2004 18-06 Victor Kozlov has just called and has informed the details:

May, 27 group Shabaline-Tukhvatullin-Mariev has left camp on 8300 and went upwards with the tent, ropes, gas and meal. Weight of backpacks was significant for such altitude. They ascended to 8600 m and reached there the extremely difficult step of "6-grade" rocks. They have tried to climb it, but, fixed 0,5 rope, were compelled to stop and spent the night there. Work at such altitude is very hard. Guys have set Camp 5 (8600 м) - the small tent, there are no sleeping bags, only the stove and a little meal. Guys spent the night in down suits. Today they have continued the work on rocks. It was possible to fix a rope more. Today they spend the night in the same place, on 8600!!! Guys have not enough oxygen, they have taken only 2 cylinders per person, they couldn't take more to carry up , anybody did not expect for such situation. Therefore they save oxygen, use it extremely seldom and work on the minimal charge when use. Tomorrow they will try to pass more to the left - this way seems to be easier.. .. They will reach the summit, or should go downwards - the fourth day at 8600 t is impossible.

The group " SIBERIA " (Kuznetsov, Vinogradsky and Sokolov) is now at 7800. Today they have made loads descention to camp 2 - to take ropes there, and then have ascended to 7800 again, and then went firther. They have left loads on 14-th rope after 7800. Tomorrow with all loads they will start to 8600 (directly to camp 5).

There were some changes in the third group: after it has spent 2 nights in Camp 2 at 7200, Yuri Koshelenko without the special reasons has left downwards, and now he is in АВС. Bobok and Volodin have remained in Camp 2. Tomorrow they will ascend to 7800.
"

They have encountered 6th grade rock at 8600m, really amazing... :o