7summits forum!

Mountally challenged => Harry's Everest 2005 trip updates => Topic started by: Romke on May 16 2005, 19:06

Title: 16th May: killing time in ABC
Post by: Romke on May 16 2005, 19:06
Not a lot of news from the mountain: another resting day where the main event was Lorenzo's arrival on a day otherwise filled with food, chess and iPod.

Does anyone have an update about weather or ropes?
Title: Re: 16th May: killing time in ABC
Post by: Chris Valentine on May 16 2005, 20:18
Lorenzo just says that its going to be a good test for his -30 dec. C rated sleeping bag!

Chris.
Title: Re: 16th May: killing time in ABC
Post by: Mary Clare on May 17 2005, 00:56
Well, it looks like it is down to "wait (patiently..???..) and see".  So now everything is set (aside from the ropes at the "steps") and all are waiting for a window of good weather.  It is getting close to "show time".

I read on Everest News that some of the sherpas from the men's Norwegian expedition made it to the 1st step and fixed rope to the ridge.  This report was not "confirmed".  It sounds like no one has fixed rope past that point ... the 2nd and 3rd steps will be challenging for the first team to ascent past 8300 meters.  I am again wishing all climbers and sherpas success, safety and good health.

Sincerely,
mc
Title: Re: 16th May: killing time in ABC
Post by: Romke on May 17 2005, 14:44
A little more news from Harry: the team is complete, everyone is in ABC now. They have no certainty about when to leave yet. Harry's feeling a throat ache coming up, so let's hope it doesn't grow to an inflammation.

Good news is that he's going to try to send an update today... I don't know how, but it sounds like he found a way to send more e-mail!

- R
Title: Re: 16th May: killing time in ABC
Post by: MournesMan on May 19 2005, 05:49
Yes those fixed ropes (or lack of them) could prove problematic.  I just hope some team (preferably Himalayan Experience as they are being payed for the task) can get ropes up steps 2 and 3.  You don't want to take risks if the weather is likely to be volatile in its moods - I've just finished reading Anatoli Boukreev's account ("The Climb - Tragic ambitions on Everest") of the 1996 Everest ascents where Rob Hall (of the Adventure Consultants team) and Scott Fischer (of the Mountain Madness team) both died in getting their clients to the top (as well as a number of clients/sherpas).  A number of issues/problems were encountered, one of them being the fact that there was a log-jam of climbers at the fixed ropes at the steps and leading down to the South Col.  I know you are climbing the mountain from the Tibetan side but I hope this can't happen nowadays and that lessons have been learned.  I hope they are using separate "up" and "down" ropes - given the current poor weather, you don't want to get caught up there in a log-jam if it deteriorates!!

Take care and I'm watching with interest as the sharp end of the expedition draws near.

regards, Colin
Title: Re: 16th May: killing time in ABC
Post by: Chris Valentine on May 19 2005, 14:23
In one of Lorenzo's messages to me yesterday he said ropes would be in place today, but of course that could only mean for part of the route.

Chris.