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Author Topic: Short Roping - a sobering thought  (Read 6010 times)


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Short Roping - a sobering thought
« on: Apr 12 2006, 15:03 »


Some interesting reading regarding the popular technique of shortroping and it's potential pitfalls. This is the findings of reseasrch by Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and those at Alpine Recreation in NZ. One of Gottlieb's guides and good freinds, Erica Beuzenberg, died when her and her clients fell on what many would consider easy ground. His subsequent research has thrown up some very interesting findings. There are a history of unfortunate accidents all throughout mountaineering whilst on the 'short rope'. The findings are very sobering.

If you ever thought that guides fees were expensive, after reading this you'll think that they should be charging a hell of alot more.

The New Zealand Mountain Association are setting up a series of tests on the above

An independent review of Gottliebs presentation and the article mentioned above by mechanical engineers largely supported the conclusions and recommendations of the more recent article below

It is worth noting that Gottliebs presentation and opinions (especially with regards to "releasable leashes") are not broadly representative of the NZMGA and it's membership.

« Last Edit: Apr 13 2006, 17:55 by MoT »

pete james

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Re: Short Roping - a sobering thought
« Reply #1 on: Apr 17 2006, 14:15 »

Hello there,

Thought you should know that Gottliebs views and "research" are not the entire story.
 Check out :-

for a recent review of Gottlibs presentation.

Aslos check out ukclimbing.com for recent correspondence regarding this topic.


Pete James
Commitee member MZMGA, guide, research scientist
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