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Author Topic: May 19th: ALex Abramov: TEam 1 summits, 7summits guide helps with rescue  (Read 6792 times)


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May, 19 2007 Camp 7700 8300 m, Everest from the North.

Morning call (6 a.m. in Moscow):

Now in Tibet is 10 a.m... The First team has gone down from the summit to the Second step. Now they have already passed descent from the Second step, as a key place. Now the team sits on breakage of connection . 12 person reached the top and now sit on "mushroom", it is a rock as a mushroom which is at the basis of the Second step. This place where usually rest and leave spare cylinders. On the spot . breakage of connection . The weather favours.

The second team will begins an ascent on camp of 8300 m in one hour, on road we should meet the first team.


7 p.m. Tibetan time

Alexander Abramov from slopes of Everest

Now our second team under my leadership is at height of 8300 meters. The first team, today having made a successful ascent on Everest, has already gone down to the North Col. The majority of its members have gone down already to camp ABC, 6500 meters.

Only our guide Sergey Kofanov continues to work on the route. . He has found out near to the camp of 8300 meters an Italian climber in very bad condition. As appeared, he has spent two days near the camp of 8300 meters, probably out of tent. Sergey Kofanov has collected small group of rescue: they are two French girls and one Sherpa. They accompany the Italian downwards. In the beginning he could not even move at all and could not speak. Sergey made an injection of deximetazon, then have moved him in a tent, gave him water. In result, Italian climber now can go down on one's own, but very slowly. We hope, that they can lower him today down to the camp on North Col.

Our second team is now in the camp 8300. We prepare for an ascent. In 5 hours, at 12, the exit is planned. Here there is no opportunity to sleep, we do want to eat, just waiting.

I hope tomorrow we send you new information, on how will be finished our climb.

Wish good luck us good luck !

"He who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary." -- Friedrich Nietzsche

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