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Author Topic: May 21st: Summit and problems  (Read 8225 times)


  • The Wireless Biker
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May 21st: Summit and problems
« on: May 22 2005, 00:42 »

I sleep reasonably and  to answer negative when Doctro Andrey comes to my tent and asks: "Are you not dead yet?"
Andrey is a great and skillfull doctor, with 22 years of technical and high altitude climbing experience, eager to learn more English and a totally fun guy overall. It is always a surprise which medication he pulls out of his jacket-pocket or deep down from his drum and many climbers from other expeditions have already found the way to 'Doctor Andrey', internally also lovingly named 'The Crazy Doc'..

Before I fully wake up I feel the tension in camp. It's summit day for our team!
The 3 members and one Sherpa have left camp 3 at 8300m around 02.30 in the morning, but we hear nothing about their progress. We can see tiny dots crawling up the top snowfields from ABC, but cannot tell who the dots are.
The first news is from Volodia: he had crampon problems near the Steps and is coming down with his Sherpa.

I need to start going down as it will be a long day in my current state, but I also want to know what happened to Victor & Marko. They should have summited by now if they reserve enough oxygen for the descent!
I leave camp for an uneasy hike down and ask Lorenzoto update me by Satelilte-Txt messages.
Before I reach Middle camp at 5800m, where the cook immediately begins making fresh frenchfries, I get the message: "Marko & Victor summited! No details."
I use the radio to contact Alex at ABC and he confirms the news. Appparently our teammembers are the only summiteers so far and we congratulate eachother. Even though this attempt was not planned, it seems that our logistics set up has made it possible.

I continue down, coughing constantly as the cold hard wind tres to get behind my scarf and into my sour throat.
I try to leave a message about the summiteers on Romke's answering machine, it takes a long timebefore I can produce any sound that is recordable.
When arriving in BC I talk to Lorenzo by phone, who lets me know that the team in ABC is getting worried. Volodia is back in camp 2, 7700m, and Victor is back in camp 3, 8300m, but he has not seen Marko in a while.
This is bad news. The conditions are deteriorating fast and snow is falling on the entire upper side of the mountain.
There are many wayys to get lost on Everest and zero visibility of course does not help. The main problem when descending is finding the 'exit' to the left and down when climbing down the technically easy ridge after the steps and the Mushroom rock.
That section is so easy that many climbers do not even use the ropes.The ropes are not needed for support, but are very handy as a guideline to show the way as it is very  easy to miss the exit and continue along the way to the pinnacles, where the true North East ridge meets the east ridge.

Marko, at Yuri's B-day party

Another big problem is the immediate desire to wanting to go to sleep the moment a climber runs out of oxygen. This can be lethal as many climbers have not woken up when falling asleep above 8500m..

It is now 00.30 Chinese time and I am about to send out this update, regrettingly having to inform you that we have still no news about the whereabouts of Marko, together with his friend and climbing partner Victor 2 of our favorite and strongest team members.

A sherpa has been sent up the end of the afternoon to search and is already above camp 3, when we hear anything new, we will inform you asap. Join me in hoping that there has been some form of miscommunication and that we will hear Marko's deep laughter soon again.

Signing off from BC,

Harry Kikstra
« Last Edit: May 22 2005, 01:11 by Romke »


  • Lee
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Re: May 21st: Summit and problems
« Reply #1 on: May 22 2005, 06:50 »

I have been siging into the site everyday watching your progress. I am praying for a safe reunion.

Just came back from Calgary, Alberta, Canada to Vancouver Island. The whole drive through the Rocky Mountains all I could think about while looking up into those beautiful monsterous mountains was Everest and your expedition and hoping everything was OK. As you remember my friend died at BC just last October.   

My prayers are with you all!!!!
"You cannot teach a man anything; you can only help him to find it within himself." -- Galileo

Mary Clare

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Re: May 21st: Summit and problems
« Reply #2 on: May 22 2005, 08:12 »

It must be such a difficult time for everyone.  On the one hand, we want to celebrate the success of the 6 summitteers and indeed we should.  A huge congradulations!  To work and prepare so long for such an endeavor.  But on the other hand, it is so devastating to think that there is even a possibility that something bad may have happened to Marko.  I will stay positive until there is definite news...I am hoping he will find his way back to ABC or that the sherpa who was sent to find Marko will be able to do so and help him back down safely.

I want to send special good wishes to my brother, John.  His family has been asking about his progress and I am keeping everyone informed.  All the best to you, John, be safe...I love you.


Chris Valentine

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Re: May 21st: Summit and problems
« Reply #3 on: May 22 2005, 15:24 »

Just came back from Calgary, Alberta, Canada to Vancouver Island. The whole drive through the Rocky Mountains all I could think about while looking up into those beautiful monsterous mountains was Everest and your expedition and hoping everything was OK.

I was thinking the same thing while I was in the Austrian Tyrol week before last. None of the peaks in the area are over 3000m but just looking at them reminded me instantly of Everest and the friends we have up there right now.

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Re: May 21st: Summit and problems
« Reply #4 on: May 24 2005, 23:37 »

Hello folks

I haven't been able to keep up with the expedition since learning of the fate of Lynn and Noel.  But I have read recently with much distress, the plight of Marko and Viktor.  I am praying for Marko's safe return.

I was distressed to read on everest news web site that a body had been found although it wasn't stated whose body.

I hope Marko is OK and send my best wishes to all the team.  Please let him show up soon - please send someone to look for him!

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