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Ranking in 7summits list, either CP or K | : | 5 |
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Ranking in Carstensz Pyramid list | : | 2 |
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Ranking in Kosciuszko list | : | 5 |
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First name | : | Reinhold |
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Family name | : | Messner |
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Gender | : | male |
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Country of origin | : | Italy |
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Date of Birth | : | 1944-09-17 |
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Name of first summit | : | Carstensz |
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Date of climbing the first summit | : | 1971-09-27 |
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Name of final summit in Carstensz list | : | Vinson |
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Date of final summit in Carstensz list | : | 1986-12-03 |
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Name of final summit in Kosciuszko list | : | Vinson |
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Date of final summit in Kosciuszko list | : | 1986-12-03 |
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Date of climbing Kilimanjaro | : | 1978-01-31 |
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Date of climbing Elbrus | : | 1983-08-05 |
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Date of climbing Aconcagua | : | 1974-01-23 |
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Date of climbing Denali | : | 1976-06-12 |
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Date of climbing Vinson | : | 1986-12-03 |
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Date of climbing Everest | : | 1978-05-08 |
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Date of climbing Carstensz Pyramid | : | 1971-09-27 |
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Date of climbing Kosciuszko | : | 1983-00-00 |
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Climbed Carstensz Pyramid? | : | Yes |
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Climbed Kosciuszko? | : | Yes |
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Total time including Carstensz Pyramid | : | 15y,067d |
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Total time including Kosciuszko | : | 15y,067d |
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Age when finished with CP | : | 42y,077d |
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Age when finished with K | : | 42y,077d |
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Website | : | http://www.reinhold-messner.de (german only) |
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Additional Info | : | Thanks to http://www.jerberyd.com/climbing/climbers/messner/ for the following info:
The most famous climber in the world today, Reinhold Messner has been climbing since he was five years old. Born 1948 in Villnöss in the South Tyrol.
By the age of 20, he had climbed most of the hardest routes in the Dolmites and Western Alps together with his brother Gunter and had already started to formulate his dedication and philosophy in clean lightweight alpine-style climbing. Gunter was later killed by an avalanche on Nanga Parbat during their first Himalayan expedition.
After the first oxygenless climb of Everest, his solo ascents of Nanga Parbat and Everest, being the first to climb all eight-thou sanders and finishing the "Seven Summits"as the third person, he is a living legend among climbers. - "As far as the public is concerned, since 1978 my sensational climbs - Everest without oxygen and Nanga Parbat solo - are unsurpassable." Messner himself consider the traverse between Gasherbrum I and II with Hans Kammerlander in 1984 - to be his supreme Himalayan achievement.
In 1975 he and Peter Habeler made a statement that they were going to attack a 8,000 metre mountain in the same manners as done in the Alps. After succeeding on Gasherbrum I, their climb is regarded as the introduction of the "alpine style" climbing.
Something to remember about Messners climbs that really point out his capabilities is that until today he is the only person to have climbed the extremely dangerous Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat and probably the only person that ever truly will climb Everest alone. Today the mountain is crowded and if someone claims to have climbed it "solo", it means that it was done without help from others from the last camp to the summit. Also, Messner did his climb during the past-monsoon season, something never done before.
Today Messner has stopped climbing and said that he never again will return to the high mountains, but in 1996 he showed up in base camp below Gasherbrum I, to just turn around when he saw the crowd in base-camp. He actually admits playing with the thougt to once more go back, but if this happens only the future will show.
Messer who's become a wealthy man, has no intention to settle himself in a risk-free environment in his Castle Juval in the Italian Alps, during recent years he's become totally absorbed with lightweight polar expeditions. In 1990 he was first again, now by crossing the Antarctic continent on foot. Later it was time for the Arctic, however the expedition was unsuccessful, but a second try is on his mind...
Messner is also one of the few western people that claims to have seen the Yeti. According to Messner, he's met it twice, the second time during his latest expedition to Karakorum, this time with pictures as proof! They are published in his latest book, released in 1999.
Some people say of Messner that his personality has changed after his high altitude climbs, they suspect brain damage due to lack of oxygen, and uses him as a warning example of what can happen when pushing it to hard on extreme altitudes.The famous Shepra, Nazir Sabir who's been climbing with Messner, also says to have introduced Messner to the art of smoking hasch at high altidudes. If this is true, it's not hard to imagine that this must be an easy way of loosing braincells by millions !! - But who wouldn't change when getting so much attention?
Reinhold Messners memory as a top mountaineer and a true climbing hero will continue inspire generations of climbers into the 21th century.
Latest news: In the summer of 2000 Reinhold returned to Nanga Parbat to try an unclimbed route. With him was his brother Hubert, Hans Peter Eisendle and Wolfgang Thomaseth. After reaching very high on the mountain wall, they found the summit ridge too dangerous to continue.
SELECTED CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS
1950 - 64 - Over 500 climbs in the eastern Alps, mainly in the Dolomites
1965 - Ortler North Face (Direttissima, 1st ascent)
1966 - Yerupaja
1966 - Yerupaja Chico (first ascent)
1966 - Walker Spur, Grandes Jorasses
1966 - Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero North Face
1967 - Civetta Northwest Face ("Weg der Freunde", first ascent)
1967 - Agnér North Edge (first winter ascent)
1967 - Furchetta North Face (first winter ascent)
1967 - Agnér Northeast Face (first ascent)
1968 - Agnér North Face (first winter ascent)
1968 - Eiger North Pillar (first ascent)
1968 - Marmolata South Face (first ascent)
1969 - Droites North Face (solo)
1969 - Marmolata di Rocca South Face (solo)
1969 - Civetta ("Philipp Flamm", solo)
1970 - Nanga Parbat (8125m, Rupal face, first ascent)
1971 - Expeditions to Nepal, Pakistan, Persia, East Africa, New Guinea
1972 - Manaslu (8156m, South Face)
1972 - Noshaq (7492m, in Hindu Kush)
1973 - Pelmo Northwest Face (first ascent)
1973 - Marmolata West Pillar (first ascent)
1973 - Furchetta West Face (first ascent)
1974 - Eiger north face (in 10 hours)
1974 - Aconcagua (6959m, South face, first ascent)
1975 - Gasherbrum I Northwest Face (first alpine style ascent above 8000m)
1976 - McKinley (6193m)
1976 - "Wall of the Midnight Sun" (first ascent)
1977 - Dhaulagiri (8167m, failed)
1978 - Mount Everest (8850m, first ascent without supplemental oxygen)
1978 - Nanga Parbat (8125m, Damir face, first solo ascent of an 8000m peak)
1978 - Kilimanjaro (5963m, Breach Wall, first ascent)
1979 - K2 (8611m, first ascent in alpine style)
1979 - Ama Dablam (rescue operation)
1980 - Mount Everest north side (8850m, first and only true solo ascent)
1981 - Shisha Pangma (8012m)
1981 - Chamlang North Face of the central summit (7317m, first ascent)
1982 - Kangchenjunga north face (8598m, first ascent)
1982 - Gasherbrum II (8035m)
1982 - Broad Peak (8048m)
1982 - Cho Oyo (8222m, attempt in winter)
1983 - Cho Oyo (8222m, alpine style)
1984 - Gasherbrum I and II (first traverse between 8000m mountains)
1985 - Annapurna Northwest Face (8091m, first ascent)
1985 - Dhaulagiri Northeast Edge (8167m, alpine style)
1986 - Makalu (8485m, failen in winter, returned in summer)
1986 - Lhotse (8511m)
1986 - Mount Vinson (4897m, Antarctica)
1987 - Journey to Bhutan and the Pamirs
1988 - Yeti-Tibet-expedition
1989 - Lhotse (8511m, South face attempt)
1990 - Traversed Antarctica (via the South Pole on foot - 2800km)
1991 - Traversed Bhutan (east to west)
1991 - Hike in South Tyrol (800km)
1992 - Chimborazo
1992 - Crossed the Takla Makan desert (south to north)
1993 - Journey to the Dolpo, Mustang and Manang areas in Nepal
1993 - Traverse of Greenland (from southeast to northwest on foot - 2200km)
1994 - Himalayan environmental trek to Gangotri in India
1994 - Shivling (6543m)
1994 - Ruwenzori (5119m, Uganda)
1995 - Attempt to traverse the Arctic (Siberia to Canada)
1995 - Belucha (4506m, Altai, Siberia)
1996 - Journey through East Tibet (Chengdu to Lhasa and to the Kailash)
1997 - Journey to Kham (eastern Tibet)
1997 - Karakorum-expedition
1997 - Documentary on the Ol Doinyo Lengai in Africa
1998 - Journey to the Altai Mountains (Mongolia)
1998 - Journey to Puna de Atacama (Andes)
1999 - Documentary on San Francisco Peaks, USA
2000 - South Georgia (traverse following in Shackletons footsteps)
2000 - Nanga Partbat (8125m, attempt to climb a new route)
Books by Messner:
- All Fourteen 8,000ers:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/089886660X/the7summitscom
- Everest: Expedition to the Ultimate:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898866480/the7summitscom
- Reinhold Messner, Free Spirit : A Climber's Life:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898865735/the7summitscom
- My Quest for Yeti : Confronting the Himalayas Deepest Mystery:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0312203942/the7summitscom
- The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898865743/the7summitscom
- Annapurna: 50 Years of Expeditions in the Death Zone:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/089886738X/the7summitscom
- Antarctica : Both Heaven and Hell:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898863058/the7summitscom
- Moving Mountains: Lessons on Life and Leadership:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1890009903/the7summitscom
- Hermann Buhl : Climbing Without Compromise:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898866782/the7summitscom
- The Second Death of George Mallory : The Enigma and Spirit of Mount Everest:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0312268068/the7summitscom
- To the Top of the World: Alpine Challenges in the Himalaya and Karakoram:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898866774/the7summitscom
More info:
- Article by Jon Krakauer:
http://www.outsidemag.com/magazine/1097/9710reinhold.html
- Nova/PBS article about the Everest climb without oxygen:
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/everest/history/firstwoo2.html - About Messner and the Yeti:
http://www.ncf.carleton.ca/~bz050/messner.html |
