Aconcagua Challenge Christmas 2003

Ashtree Farm

Mundham Norwich

Norfolk NR14 6N

January 20th 2004

Aconcagua Challenge Christmas 2003

Aconcagua lies on the Argentinian / Chile border at a height of 22850 feet and is attractive to climbers ands serious hill walkers the world over and perhaps it is the latter attraction that it can be conquered by a non technical ascent that makes it so dangerous, indeed it has the highest death rate of the worlds high peaks!

At 22,850 feet Aconcagua is the highest peak outside Asia and for people like me seems a natural follow on to Kilimanjaro in Africa but the two mountains are totally different with Aconcagua presenting a much greater challenge - so do read on .

My trip to Aconcagua has been organised for the 2nd year running by Adventure Peaks, based in Cumbria and run by David Pritt & Jill Pinkerton - David is a much experienced mountaineer and in 2002 climbed Everest!

Our party this year numbered 16 including Adventure Peaks team leaders Andy & Helen Teasdale, 2 other couples, a lady from the Foreign Office and 9 single lads ranging in age from 17 to me at 21+ ! Worryingly there were 7 vegetarians in the party!

We arrive at Gatwick as total strangers yet within 3weeks some of us will have made life long friends as we share peaks (no pun intended) and trough of human emotions in our quest to summit that bloody mountain!

My first trough is at security as they discover my nail clippers in my hand luggage and they confiscate them - I do have the option of paying £5.00 to have them forwarded to my home address but decline the offer as they only cost £1.50 - I have this image of a hijacker threatening cabin staff with the clippers - asking them to take their socks off and then tickling their feet - OK so I'm mad!

The flight from Gatwick to Mendoza in Argentina is long and boring with stops at Madrid, Sao Paulo in Brazil (only because our aged aircraft cannot carry sufficient fuel!) Buenos Aires, Cordoba and finally Mendoza, a journey of some 31 hours!

Mendoza I love - it is the same size as Manchester but that thankfully is the only similarity - at this time of year it enjoys endless blue skies, temperatures in the 90's, tree lined boulevards with endless street cafes and thanks to the weakness of the Argentinian currency shopping is a delight!

Our hotel in Mendoza is no more than a backpackers meeting place so the rooms are basic and the showers hit everything else except you and the air conditioning has died may years previously so that when we arrive with our 64 kgs of luggage to discover our rooms are on the 4th floor , there is no lift due to a power cut we are soon reduced to a sweaty , smelly crew !

All trips to Aconcagua are expeditions, by that I mean you take everything, you carry everything, clothing, tents and food so after a fitful nights rest in our individual saunas ( bedrooms ) we all visit the giant Carrefour supermarket to buy provisions for our trip - I remember well my own task , to buy 148 tins of tuna , 30 kilos of cheese 10 kgs Salami and 40 doz: eggs ! All 16 of us have items to buy and about 2 hours later we are all lined up at the checkouts with 15 trolleys laden with goods, which we hope, will not perish too quickly - the bill? - Just under $2000 !

Back at the hotel all the food has to be split up between that which we will need to the journey into base camp and that which can go direct to base camp - it's a thankless task as you may well imagine so I am pleased to hear that Helen has volunteered to sort it all out for us………..yippee !

At the hotel we all pair off for rooms ( and tents on the trek ) and I am to share with a guy called Alex - amazingly he turns out to be a member of a milling family from Cheshire and we have many mutual friends - small world !

The rest of the day is spent sorting clothing into 2 piles , that which you need on the journey to base camp ( minimal and light weight ) and that which can go direct to base camp - heavy climbing year etc - it sounds simple but you can spend hours agonising over what you should take relative to the expected weather conditions - I've been before so its 1 T-shirt , 1 pr shorts , boots , a fleece and lots of sun cream + my trilby !

The afternoon calm is shattered when we learn that a member of the party travelling from the States has missed his plane and will be 24 hours late and that our 17 year old member is too young to travel to Aconcagua without a letter signed by his parents - he doesn't have one!

A quickly convened meeting is held for all and we vote that the Yank will just have to catch us up (we cant afford to waste a day) and we hear that Mum & Dad have been contacted in the UK and a faxed letter will suffice - oh and the Argentine Park Authorities have just increased the Aconcagua Park fees by $100 per head ……great!

The Yank (called Bo , he just has to be an American with a name like that ! ) appears ahead of schedule so we leave Rees ( the 17 year old ) and Helen behind to await the faxed permission from Mum & Dad - they catch up with us early the next day .

Finally 36 hours after arriving we are off, the bus arrives, far too small so they send for a 2nd one and after a 5 hour journey we are at the hostel (approx: 9000 feet) at the entrance to the Aconcagua Park - this is where we are introduced to the mules and muleteers who will take our equipment to base camp. The mule is of course a cross twixt a horse and a donkey, immensely strong, sure footed to negotiate narrow mountain passes and not surprisingly well fed and watered by their muleteer owners.

Again I am reminded that are now at altitude as breathing becomes a little laboured so drink more water is the order of the day - I feel a sense of déjà vu as I felt exactly the same way last year and it is slightly uncomfortable -the night at the hostel will be our last touch with civilisation for nearly 3 weeks so we eat a big meal before retiring.

The whole trip is split into 2 distinct sections - the " walk - in " -, which starts at the hostel and finishes hopefully at the summit and the " walk - out " from the summit to the hostel.

10 am the next morning we begin our " walk in " to Aconcagua, the 1st day is leisurely and lasts for some 6 hours walking up the Vacas valley. The valley is deep with a river at the bottom in full flow from the melting snows further up and the mountains on either side are spectacular and most have a snow covering, Walking is on paths and river beds where the surface is littered with large rocks and small boulders - no problems as we are only too pleased to be in the fresh air and at last on our way. The day temperature is high and it is essential to cover up or use layers of sun oils.

Dehydration is a constant concern and we do our best to drink a minimum of 5/6 litres per head per day - obviously with all this drinking you pee a lot and often is heard the shout - " Yippee its white ", referring to the colour of your pee and the fact that the colour white indicates you are drinking enough water. At this altitude the mountain water is clean enough negating the use of Iodine but some still insist fearing a fear of the " trots " !

Most people use a platypus which basically is a flat plastic container which holds up to 2 litres and you place that in your backpack with a tube and mouthpiece attached - during the day you simply suck on the mouthpiece and you have a mouthful of water - this is far better than the usual bottles which invariably means that you have to take your backpack off to access them - that OK but when a backpack weighs 25 kgs + then it's a pain /nightmare so the temptation is not to do so which in turn leads to dehydration - a vicious circle !

Lunch on such days consists of anything left over from breakfast, a cereal bar, perhaps a tin of tuna squeezed into some rather dry bread some fresh fruit and more water.

Late afternoon sees us reach our 1st camp which holds many emotional memories for me as it was here last year that a North Korean fell to his death a mere 100 metres away from us - whilst none of us knew him, by being on the Mountain he was one of us and so I take time out to privately lay a small flower at the spot where he fell - after a few moments of silence, a word with " him" upstairs, the odd tear and then I return to the team.

This is our 1st night out, so tents are pitched quickly and efficiently and the volunteers quickly start a brew and commence cooking the evening meal of chicken soup and some revolting veggie dish but what the heck I'm hungry and appreciate a mixture of carrots, pasta and tinned tomatoes - what no Tuna !

8pm and I am in my sleeping bag absolutely knackered so a good nights sleep is essential before a 6am rise the next day.

Early morning starts I hate but needs must so following a bowl of porridge and the 1st of many mugs of black tea , we quickly pack the tents , clear the site and begin the 2nd days trek further up the Vacas valley by 8am ..

Quickly the sun is up, the sky is blue and on goes the sun lotion - the day is spent travelling in a flat, wide river basin with the usual obstacles on the path but good progress is made by all and we are rewarded late in the afternoon with our 1st glimpse of Aconcagua - its awesome, magnificent and frighteningingly majestic ( if there is such a word ! ) and we all stop to have our photos taken with Aconcagua as the backdrop - I have to admit that minutes earlier I had excited all by referring to another mountain as being Aconcagua and I well remember Richard stating how small it was with an obvious air of disappointment ……..oops !

That nights camp is a good un with a flat surface to pitch the tent and there is a buzz in the air having seen Aconcagua and seeing the task ahead and with the thought of being at base camp tomorrow we really feel that we are making good progress - however at the start of Day 3 there is a surprise for all !

Day 3 sees another early start and we depart camp after the usual porridge or cereal in shorts and sandals - why,? because we have to cross the valley river which is flowing well direct from the glaciers above and is at a temperature that actually hurts you as you wade through it !

Suddenly there is a cry of " Foul " as we notice that certain members of the party have paid the muleteers for a ride across the icy cold stream - being a man I wouldn't dream of such things so I wade across and yes it is cold and yes it does hurt! . Richard is our resident photographer but his prized video camera will not function as he strives to capture those moments live and the air is full of oaths as he asks people to wait before crossing - finally he gives up and the rest cross with anguished cries.

Whilst the previous 2 days have been easy going today gets tougher with some steep climbs over paths narrow in the extreme with the waters some 100 feet below waiting should you make a mistake - or higher up as you struggle up the paths the mules come chasing up the hill and they don't stop so its time for a quick exit to a safe haven.

There is a chill in the air as we finally make base camp at some 13,000 feet but we are pleased to be here for tomorrow is a rest day. Base camp is a barren site spread over several acres and is dotted with many tents and the odd portable loo - its bereft of vegetation, its always windy but its going to be our home for the next few days so we will have to make the most of it . For the mules and muleteers it's the end of the road for from here we carry all our own gear.

There is one tent resembling civilisation and that houses Daniel the muleteers agent and he recognises me from last year so I receive a big hug and he amazes me by producing a photo of me from last year - to celebrate we buy some coke but the celebrations are cut short when we discover its $5 a can - shit that's £3.50!

At base camp we share a mess tent and it actually has some gas rings and so the meat eaters flex their muscles and cook the 1st decent meal of the trip- fantastic!

One new innovation at Base camp this year is the doctor and we all have to be tested for oxygen in our blood - this is a means of gauging how well we have become acclimatised. Most peoples are the min 80% but mine comes in at a miserable 74% and am told that I cannot leave camp for 2 days and I will have to take a drug called Diomoxin to help the process - I'm distraught and I fear I may miss out on the climb all together but the Diomoxin and copious amounts of water during the day work and a test later in the afternoon sees me at 80%. ………yippee !

The title rest day is a joke as it is spent planning and preparing for the following day and at altitude it's a big effort but basically at Base Camp we plan for the serious days ahead and our 1st target will be to take our food to Camp 1, a climb of 3000 feet , leave it there and return to sleep low - this is acclimatisation strategy , its painful but necessary and it does work ! Working out what food we will require for the next perhaps 10/11 days is vital and we all err on the high side and consequently our back packs weigh 25 kgs + and that really is a challenge and whilst I moan I must make mention of the 4 girls in the party who will carry a similar weight (less what they can pass on to their boy friends / husbands) - their effort throughout the trip was fantastic - take a bow ladies!

From base camp you can see the path we have to take to Camp 1 and its is daunting but at least people know what to expect.

The climb to Camp 1 starts at 9am and will take 7 hours - it starts with a steep climb from the camp for the 1st 3 hours , mainly paths but stretches of loose scree with just a single foothold between you and an icy dip in the fast flowing river before we hit the level ground of the glacier - the biggest obstacle then are the fields of Penitentes - large eroded ice fields where you have to negotiate between tall slivers of ice with again single footholds - no perilous falls here just the slivers trying to knock you off balance - not too difficult with your backpack bursting with food and other equipment . The going is slow but the pace being set by Helen or Andy is just right given the altitude which will be approx 17,000 feet at Camp 1.

The final obstacle is a large ice field on a steep slope and whilst there are good footholds the snow is getting slushy and slippery in the heat of the day and coupled with the weight on your back we are starting to tire but eventually we reach Camp 1 - another barren wilderness with little protection from the wind save some windbreaks that have been constructed from the many rocks littering this site.

We quickly unload our gear and cover it with more stone to prevent it being blown away before heading back down to base camp.

There are many myths re: going down mountains, yes they are quicker but not without its problems caused by the upward stretch and your thighs and knees feel the strain and going down steep scree slopes often means long distances on your backside - the skiers amongst us think it great fun and are soon miles ahead, goodie, they can get dinner ready for us slower movers! Time back to camp is approx 2 hours so we will have been on our feet climbing for some 9-10 hours, more than enough at this altitude!

Back at base camp we all head for the mess tent and that cup of black tea - volunteers are found for cooking and washing up duties whilst the rest of us head to the doctors for another oxygen test and good news I'm up to 86% and that qualifies me for the summit - all tests are dutifully recorder in the doctors handwritten log - his Argentinian English is more decipherable than any English doctors scribbling !

The following day is another rest day and again its decision time, what gear to leave behind and what to take to Camp 1, 2 and of course the summit. All non essential gear is left behind including soaps , towels , toothpaste but even then with the summit gear being packed the rucksacks feel heavier - not good news ! - the day passes quickly , its soon dinner time , bed and before you know it its 6am and time to start all over again……curses !

The usual breakfast then the last packing to include tents , stoves , all climbing gear plus other group equipment and yes those bags must weigh close to 30 kgs - not good !

When we return to base it will be as the conquered or conquerors so with grim determination we again set off to Camp 1 - again it's a pig of a climb by that I mean its steep and never ending and there is much heavy breathing and cursing so we don't make Camp 2 until 4.30, ( I don't have the words to convey the physical challenge but just take my word for it - its tough ! ) - its taken us an extra hour due to the extra loads we are carrying but what the heck we are there . With whatever energies we have left we pitch tents and for the first time cook our own meals, ugh, its boil in the bag time, a tasteless mixture of something pretending to be Lancashire Hotpot - a quick addition of some blue cheese gives it some attraction but not much. A quick brew of black tea takes the taste away and we are ready for a good nights sleep - we don't bother to clean our dishes, its already frozen as are the knife and fork to the dish - my dish is a plastic thing bought in Mendoza with a picture of Sleeping Beauty on it ………….how bizarre!

At this altitude, all drinking water is stored in your sleeping bag and your body heat prevents it from freezing but doesn't prevent my platypus from leaking - Oh the joy of a wet sleeping bag !

The next day is a rest day so nothing stirs until mid morning when the peace is broken by the cursing from various tents as they try to start their stoves to cook breakfast which again is of porridge - have you ever had a mixture of Lancashire hotpot and porridge - I don't recommend it , but who cares !

By mid morning the sun is out and out of the wind is hot but when the sun disappears the temperature falls dramatically so most of the day is spent in the pig-sty ( tent ) playing cards or simply trying to relax and plan again of what we will need the next day for the walk in to Camp 2 at 19.500 feet - again we will carry food up on the 1st day leave it there and come back to Camp 1 - I know from last year that Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a v: long and strenuous day so am not looking forward to it .

One thing I haven't mentioned and it's the most common question - what do you do for a loo or are there any loos - not at this height, so at night for the men its a question of a pee bottle - when you try and pee into a bottle and not over your sleeping bag or if it's a No 2 then find the biggest rock and………………the views are fantastic albeit though a little draughty - for the girls , its all big rocks I'm afraid or on the treks it's a shout of " look the other way please ! " At higher altitudes the pee bottle doubles up as a water bottle! - no need to be squeamish , urine is sterile , the only problem being to remember that you have used your water bottle for other things !

I believe Richard held the record for the most pees in the night ……….7 - just when did he find the time to sleep?

It soon morning and its Camp 2 today and we leave Camp 1 at 8am and all day it is a long, long climb, traversing some very steep slopes of scree at a very steady pace - the lunch break is spent on a very windy coll which does none of us any favours so we move on quickly and finally hit Camp 2 at around 5pm - everyone is shattered but the views across the Andes is almost worth the pain and almost on cue the sun comes out, the wind drops and we enjoy a few moments of bliss before we again pile our gear under stone before returning to Camp 1 - we have spent a good 10/11 hours on the hill by the time we get back !

Same routine at Camp 1, a rest day, sorting out the gear to take to Camp 2 and deciding if you can afford to leave any gear behind - few people do as Camp 2 is the launch Camp for the summit, we have allocated 4 nights to our stay there, this allows us flexibility if conditions are bad and we have to wait for a summit attempt so it is vital that we have sufficient food for this stay, if not then down you go !

Getting water at altitude is a problem and here at Camp 1 we have to wait for the nearby stream to thaw - the trip to the stream is a pain as it is some 50 yards away and the return to camp from the stream is uphill and takes ages - sods law that I am on the early water carry when you have to take your ice axe to source the water!

Same routine at night, cook another nasty boil in the bag, by now the are many tastes in my Sleeping Beauty bowl not having cleaned it for some days and we play spot the meal competition!

Morning comes quickly enough, today we have to pack tents, sleeping bags etc and again the backpacks are heavy and that just adds to the burden of the day. Again Helen leads off but soon stops suffering from headaches which refuse to go away and she makes the brave decision to return to Base Camp, her trip over , but her health is far more important that some bloody mountain - by the time we return to Base Camp she is fully recovered other than a rash - I suggest she is allergic to mountains or Argentina , she smiles and murmurs " old fart " under her breath .

Losing Helen at this stage is a blow but we all know it can / could happen to us so on to Camp 2 we go - further problems just below Camp 2 as Steve almost comes to a halt due to lack of water, he is suffering headaches so he is reminded of the need for both water and a Paracetamol, does as he is told and finally makes it.

When we arrive conditions are different to the earlier visit, its cold , windy and dull and there is little room for tents on this barren , damp landscape standing at some 19,500 feet . Water is at a premium as the stream is only accessible for water for the odd hour at 4pm ish - we are too late for that and finish up using ice axes to break the ice on various small ponds that litter this camp - the ponds look dodgy so Iodine makes an appearance.

I know Camp 2 well from last year for this is as far as I got due to adverse weather conditions - I feel good, I feel confident, I feel relieved to have to got as far as last year.

You know the routine by now, a rest day but this time with a difference - we have to take an extra man on board and suddenly the pig sty that Alex and I have shared for these last 10 days has to make space for a 3rd ! That's OK if the 3rd man is compatible - this one aint, he is old, all of 50 and seems to have a lilo for a permarest and a sleeping bag big enough for 2 - this is not good - he is also fussy, appalled at our eating gear and starts to clean up - Jeez what an old woman!

Now for the biggie - Summit day tomorrow - Andy briefs us all on the dangers etc , what to take , how long it should take us , if you turn back you do so on your own and you have to find your way back . If you cannot summit by cut off time you have to turn back and finally his word is final. It's a long briefing session but vital and could be life saving at this altitude - we agree to depart Camp at 3am, so up at 1.45am breakfast (yes porridge again but in clean bowls! ) get dressed and be ready to depart at 3am.

You do not of course sleep, far too exciting (frightening) for that so when the alarm goes off at 1.45 am we are (all 3 of us, Alex, me and the old woman) ready . What we were not ready for was 3 men trying each to put on 4 layers of clothing - we get the old woman to cook breakfast - ah! room at last and dressing is completed - I feel like Michelin man - but at 3 am we are all ready for the off .

3 am at Camp 2 is dark, its min 10oC but there is no wind - so using head torches to light the way we are off like miners going down the pit. Progress is steady with Andy setting the pace upfront but it is not long before our old woman feels that today isn't his day and returns to camp - I am not surprised as he has been taking Imodium for the last 3 days!

The first obstacle is having to traverse a large ice field and for this we need to attach crampons - never easy in the light but in the dark much worse, my good friend Ed a builder from Notts takes pity on the old man and does the deed for me - I am thankful beyond words and then moan at other people who are taking so long to do theirs' and its getting bloody cold!

I love crampons and easily traverse the ice field - thankfully the dark hides the fall in store for anyone who misses his or her footing - phew!. At this point one of the girls calls it a day amidst much emotional out pouring - we all understand what she is going through and soon she is heading back to camp.

We are blessed with the sight of sunrise in the Andes but almost ignore it in our selfish application to the task ahead and we are making good progress and spirits are high. Daylight shows us exactly what lies ahead but what the heck, we have come this far there cant be anything worse ……….can there?

Late morning and we are just below the Indepencia camp at some 21,000 feet and again we lose another member of the team, Jane - the effort, strain has proven just too much for her despite a bloody good effort and she also returns to Camp 2 but this time accompanied by her partner who makes a successful return the following day and summits - well done Richard!

Richard I hate! - he is so fit and as the self appointed team camera man he ensures that he is always ahead of the team to record your thoughts as you struggle to overcome the difficulty of the day with a chirpy question and his video camera complete with sound effects slammed in your face - I just cant wait to see / hear it all on DVD .

Jane I love - and more so when I discover our mutual liking of Vino Tinto - oh what a pity that Mendoza lies in the very heartland of the world famous Norton Estate and thoughts turn towards that bottle(s) of Malbec - meanwhile back on the mountain -

Conditions are changing and the wind is gusting strong enough to blow you off course - from the Indepencia camp you climb to a long coll leading to the entrance to the Canaletto which lead to the summit ridge. It is along this ridge that I decide also to call it a day - the winds are powerful (gusting to 50/60 mph) and the wind chill factor is in the region of -35/45oC and I know that I will not summit. It's a strange feeling, no cursing, almost at ease with the decision - I am delighted to have reached 22,000 feet, disappointed yes but content .

I meet Steve and the lady from the FO - they decide to carry on, both fail to summit but make a bloody effort before calling it a day. - Strange isn't it as it was Steve who struggled to make Camp 2 yet here with a little more luck might well have made the summit .The lady from the FO is planning to climb Everest later this year and I wish her well - she is quite amazing and I learn a new word, " fark " from her over the time on Aconcagua - its " fark this " and " what the farking hell is that " - sounds very similar to my more guttural Anglo Saxon but obviously far more socially acceptable!

As I turn back, something happens that all climbers dread, I need a pee ! There is no shelter from the winds and so on this coll I drop all 4 pairs of trousers and guess what? , I cant find my John Thomas! - its too cold and it / he / it has disappeared - OK so I joke but on that coll having a pee wasn't funny - I could have suffered frostbite !

I radio Andy to inform him of my decision to turnaround and as with the others make my way back to Camp 2 - of course I get lost for a time and finally arrive back at camp at 4pm ish - a 13 hour day ! The old woman comes up trumps and thrusts a mug of hot chocolate in my hand - oh it tastes good!

On the summit day, out of 15 people , 3 summitted - my tent mate Alex got within 100 metres before turning back absolutely knackered - 100 metres doesn't sound far but it would have taken him at least an hour - from where I turned round it would have taken at least 4 hours to reach the summit .

Back at Camp 2 its time for a big Z , its time to recharge those batteries and think of the walk out - some of the guys who did not summit want another crack after a days rest but that bid is squashed by Andy as he feels that no one will recover in time - he is absolutely right !

I have my best nights sleep from roughly 6pm to 10 am the following day - but that is dangerous as I haven't consumed any water and the head starts to ache, so Nurofen and water is required - the former is no problem but the latter is with all supplies frozen so I start to use the pick axe on some snow only to discover someone has done a No 2 in it! - Oh boy this is the life! A decent water supply is found and soon we have enough boiling water for all!

My other problem is that my eyes have an infection and the bags under my eyes are bigger than normal - I will need attention when back at base camp.

So by mid day its back to Base Camp fully loaded with all your gear - the backpack weighing its heaviest of all the days on Aconcagua, don't forget its taken us 2 climbing days to reach Camp 2 but I am back at Base camp within 6 hours and am greeted with the best meal ever…………eggs, bacon and chips with a glass of Vino Tinto , oh yes we know how to live on mountains !

I visit the doctor as Base Camp along with Andy - who has summitted, he is fit , he teaches at an all girls school and I am jealous on all 3 counts - I have to deal with farmers ! Andy has frostbite on 2 fingers and they look nasty with big blisters but The Doc assures him all will be well and he bandages them up in such a style that suggests he was never in the Boy Scouts!

Now its my turn - he has no interest in my eyes at this stage, all he wants to do is to test my oxygen levels again and …………………….wow, a stonking 86 ! - amazing isn't it when I had a reading of 74 I was feeling v: fit now I have reading of 86 and I feel like an old man of 60 !

Oh yes, my eyes - conjunctivitis! - Now for the highlight of my trip, he administers some eye drops , red ones - and before you know it I am being likened to Alice Cooper - whoever she is ! my new look raises a few eyebrows and numerous photos are taken of this geriatric Alice Cooper - I feel they are taking the piss !

The rest of the day is spent relaxing and eating whatever you want to cook, bliss! - packing is now easy , just stuff everything in the bags for onward travel by mules to the road head and carry as little as possible !

The last night on trek is a hoot as 5 of us sleep under the stars in our sleeping bags - just like a midnight feast at school, with lots of noise, obscene jokes and shouts of " shut up" from the boring ones in tents!

This camp also supplies us with the funniest moment on the whole trek, I'll try and explain. Picture the scene, its 7am and people are starting to wake but most are still in their tents when Andy our trek leader has this cunning plan - he stands by Steve's tent and loudly undoes his zip fly - I shout out " Hey Andy, careful where you pee " and with that he pours from a kettle water on to Steve's tent - those watching are having fits of laughter, Steve shouts out " Oi " but stays in his tent - it's a hoot!

Later that morning I record a chat with Steve on my Dictaphone and start by asking how he has enjoyed the trip - " Great trip until this morning when some bastard peed on my tent and I have spent 20 minutes cleaning it down " - I collapse in fits - Steve is not impressed!

Its all downhill now and whilst it took us 3 days to walk from the road head to Base Camp a distance of some 38 kilometers the journey from Base Camp to the road head takes a day and a half ( no moans as I remember that Shackleton walked 99 miles in 3 days in his successful rescue bid in Antarctica ) - we are in a hurry to return to civilisation!

We are back in Mendoza early evening and spend the 1st ½ hour in the shower washing and scraping away 2 weeks grime then its off down town for a meal, relaxation and a good night and quiet reflection - almost too quiet as I lose my camera and all record of what I had achieved.

Thursday night was a blur as my younger colleagues took me out on an all nighter (I'm too old for this stuff) but I tell you what, I did enjoy it , well what I can remember if it !!!!!

This has been a super trip with some fantastic fellow climbers, Helen and Andy superbly led the team and I feel confident that a lot of us will keep in touch.

The flight home is a long one, at Buenos Aires the plane malfunctions so we have wait until 3 am in the morning for another flight, but the new plane has fuel tanks big enough to fly direct to Madrid, the cabin staff know how to get us to sleep with generous helpings of Vino Tinto and Grouse whiskey - a combination that guarantees this old man will sleep well .

We finally arrive at Gatwick and as ever baggage handling does it best to delay our home coming but after a further hours delay we are saying a good bye to colleagues as they head off to various parts of the UK - its amazing how well you get to know people in such a short space of time especially when your life can depend on their actions !

Personally, I'm delighted at what I have achieved and will be more delighted if the promised monies come flooding in for my 3 chosen charities namely,

The Quidenham Children's Hospice St Dustan's Home for the Blind St Peters ( I think ) Church in Mundham

If through my efforts the monies raised bring a smile or relief to someone at the above then my discomfort will have been worthwhile for my discomfort is of my own doing and is temporary - there's is not ! ……….. but I do have to admit to missing meals tasting of porridge and Lancashire Hotpot !

So that's the end of my scribbling - hope it makes sense to you !

Cheers

Tim Hirst

Photographs