Books & films — Everest
The guidebooks, expedition accounts and films worth your time before Everest.
Plan the climb
Our note:The one planning book that covers all seven (and both eighths) in one volume, by a guide who has led them. Costs and logistics have moved on; the route descriptions and the order-of-climbing advice have not.
Our note:Our own guidebook to the mountain, written for people planning to go rather than to read about it: routes, seasons, logistics and what a permit actually buys.
Our note:A large, beautifully drawn non-fiction picture book (geology, Sherpa life, the first ascent, the rubbish problem) for readers of eight and up. The best children's introduction to the mountain.
Our note:The Cicerone guide to the walk in: Base Camp, Gokyo, the Three Passes. Not a climbing guide, but the approach is a fortnight of the expedition and this is the book for it.
Our note:The expedition doctor of 1996 on treating frostbite and cerebral oedema in a tent. Medicine as it is actually practised on the mountain.
Our note:The standard reference history, expedition by expedition, from 1921 to the late 1990s. Not a book to read through; the one to have on the shelf when a question comes up.
Read the mountain
Our note:Hall was left for dead at 8,600 m in 2006 and walked into camp the next morning. The most matter-of-fact account of what hypoxia does to a mind, written by the mind it happened to.

After reaching the summit of Mount Everest in 1982, photographer Patrick Morrow decided to stand…
Our note:The history of Himalayan climbing told from the Sherpa and Balti side for once, who actually fixed the ropes and carried the loads on the famous ascents, Everest included.
Our note:How guiding on Everest went from Hall and Fischer to the Nepali-owned operators who run most of the mountain today. The book to read before comparing operators.
Our note:A client on Rob Hall's 1996 team who turned round below the summit. The third account of that day, and the one about the decision the others did not make.
Our note:Harry's own account, in Dutch, of three Everest expeditions: what the mountain is like from inside a team rather than from a base-camp headline.
Our note:Simpson on what 1996 said about commercial Everest and about climbers walking past the dying. Angry, and still the argument the mountain has not settled.
Our note:The 1963 American traverse (up the West Ridge, down the South Col) told by one of the two who did it. Short, unshowy, and the best-written Everest book there is.
Our note:Morris was the Times correspondent at Base Camp in 1953 and got the news to London for the Coronation. Short, and the best writing to come out of that expedition.
Watch
Our note:The IMAX team was on the mountain during the 1996 storm and kept filming. The footage of the Icefall and the Lhotse Face is still the best there is.
Our note:The 1996 disaster as a feature film, with the South Col and the Hillary Step built at scale. The mountain geography is unusually accurate; the characterisation is Hollywood's.
Our note:Three seasons following Russell Brice's north-side expeditions client by client. Reality television, and also the most detailed picture of a commercial Everest climb ever broadcast.
The 7 summits as a project

Gerry Roach's quest for the Seven Summits spanned four decades and went far beyond the…
Skills, training & medicine for any mountain
Not about this peak, but you will want them on it. A short selection; the Library holds the rest.
Our note:Nobody teaches descending, and it is where most of the accidents are. Kirkpatrick's manual on rappelling, downclimbing and getting off a mountain in bad weather.
Our note:Pocket-sized, by a physician who works at altitude. What AMS, HAPE and HACE look like, what to do, and (the part people skip) when to go down.
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